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TRT18NRHW1 Tappan Refrigerator - Overview
Diagrams for TRT18NRHW1
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$43.51
In Stock
Door Handle
Part #218428101
This white refrigerator door handle is a genuine OEM replacement designed for use on both the freezer and fresh food doors of select models. Constructed for durability and a secure fit, this handle restores functionality and appearance to your appliance. Installation is straightforward and requires only a Phillips screwdriver. To replace,...Read more remove the two screws from the top of the door, slide out the old handle, attach the mounting block to the new handle, and secure it in place. Always verify model compatibility before purchase.
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$49.94
In Stock
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
Part #215846602
This defrost timer will cycle for thirty minutes after every eight hours of run time.
$11.95
In Stock
Door Shelf End Cap - Left or Right Side
Part #215267701
This end cap can be used for the right or left side of the refrigerator door shelf or the freezer door shelf.
$12.62
In Stock
Door Shelf End Cap - Left or Right Side
Part #215473602
This Genuine OEM door shelf end cap is designed for use with a variety of Frigidaire refrigerators and freezers. Constructed from durable plastic, this component secures the door rack in place, helping to maintain proper storage and organization within the appliance. The end cap is compatible with either the left or right side and is sold...Read more individually. Installation is straightforward and may require a standard screwdriver for removal and replacement. For best results, consult your model’s diagram to ensure correct placement and compatibility.
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$35.95
In Stock
Light Bulb
Part #316538904
This 40-watt appliance light bulb is a reliable replacement for use in select ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. It provides bright, consistent lighting to help you see clearly inside your appliance. Installation is simple—just unscrew the old bulb and replace it with the new one. If the existing bulb is broken, disconnect p...Read moreower and use needle-nose pliers to safely remove the remaining base. Sold individually, this bulb is a commonly replaced part—consider keeping a spare on hand.
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$58.82
In Stock
Run Capacitor
Part #5304464438
This part is attached to the compressor. It helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
$50.69
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
Part #5303917954
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
$30.95
In Stock
$72.47
In Stock
Door Shelf Retainer Bar - Cut to Fit
Part #215366002
This is a white cut-to-fit door shelf retainer bar.
$73.46
Special Order
Meat Drawer Hanging Rail - Left Side
Part #218971202
The drawer track supports the left hand side of the sliding drawer.
$87.69
In Stock
Meat Drawer Hanging Rail - Right Side
Part #218971302
This drawer rail supports the right hand side of the meat drawer.
$226.46
In Stock
Fresh Food Door Gasket
Part #5303207345
This is a genuine OEM door gasket, which works with refrigerators.
Manuals & Care Guides for TRT18NRHW1
Click to downloadCommon Symptoms of the TRT18NRHW1
How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.
Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Noisy
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Will Not Start
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Light not working
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Fridge runs too long
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Too warm
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Leaking
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Fridge too cold
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Won’t start
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Door Sweating
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Freezer too cold
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Frost buildup
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Doesn’t stop running
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Clicking sound
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See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory!
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Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
340 of 407 people
found this instruction helpful.
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
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Noisy fan
153 of 180 people
found this instruction helpful.
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer.
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including th ... Read more e brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including th ... Read more e brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
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