This is the replacement door shelf retainer bar end cap for your refrigerator. An end cap connects to the lower shelf bar on either side, and then snaps into position on the refrigerator door, allowin...
This is the replacement vegetable drawer side rail for the left side of your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 18 inches long, and 6 inches wide. The slide rail supports t...
This part is the replacement door shelf retainer bar end cap for the left side of your refrigerator door. The end cap is approximately 4 inches by 5 inches and is made of white plastic. The end cap sn...
This is a package of twelve replacement screws. They are designed as replacement screws for refrigerators. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these screws. The screws are ap...
This slide cover or slide rail is a genuine OEM replacement part for your refrigerator. This part is made of white plastic. To install it, simply remove the glass shelf, remove the current slide rail ...
This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these ...
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
Removed the back cover of freezer to acess the coil. Turned the timer to defrost and checked the voltage across the heater. Didn't have any. Stayed on the common side of heater and measured on both sides of thermostat and one side didn't have any voltage. Shorted the thermostat wires together and heater started working.
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.