SS385PEBQ0 Range - Instructions

Unplug the oven.
Open the oven door.
Remove the racks.
Remove the two screws that hold the oven floor; they are located toward the back.
Remove the oven floor pan.
Remove the screw holding the heat shield/dispenser.
Remove the heat shield/dispenser.
Untwist the ceramic wire caps on the two igniter wires.
Remove the two screws holding the igniter.
Remove the igniter.
Replace the igniter working all the steps backwards.
It’s super simple.

Your website help me troubleshoot the problem and locate the part. Part was delivered the next day. Following the instructions that others on your website had provided, the repair was quick and SUCCESSFUL.
Gas will not flow if the igniter is bad. Gas will only flow if the igniter heats up the internal bimetal strip which in turn, allows gas to flow through the safety valve
First, unplug the power sourse. For this repair it is not necessary to shut off the gas, but do so if it makes you more comfortable. Remove the oven door...it lifts right off. Next, remove the screws and lift out the bottom panel in the oven box. This will expose the igniter. Next, remove the lower drawer. Two 1/4-28 screws retain the igniter...remove these. With the drawer removed, go underneath and locate the 2 wires to the igniter. One has a green connector, and the other has a red connector. Disconnect these 2 wires and carefully remove the igniter and wires. Cut the wires from the igniter on the igniter end. You will need to reuse the plug end of each wire, so don't cut them too short. Splice these two wires to the new igniter with the wire splice caps provided. Feed the wires back down throught the opening at the back of the oven and carefully move the igniter into place. Install the two 1/4-28 retaining screws. Go back underneath the oven through the drawer opening and plug in the 2 wires. You should be good to go. Reassemble the oven and have mama bake a cake..

Before starting it's a good idea to disconnect the electricity and turn the gas valve off behind the stove.

Next, uncrew the two finger-screws at the back of the oven that hold the porcelain & steel drip plate in. It comes out if you push it towards the back of the oven and lift it out. This reveals the burner and the cylindrical igniter attached to the side of the burner. While I was there I unscrewed the one screw at the front end of the burner (nearest me).

After attempting the repair from inside the oven, I realized it was far easier to pull out the bottom drawer and work from under the oven instead. Using only one size mini-socket for all screws it was easy. I undid the two screws that hold the main burner to the back of the oven. This allowed me to pull the burner up inside the oven so I could access the screws that held the igniter to the side of the burner. A flashlight helps when working under the oven.

Under the oven again I then pulled the two wires off their respective connectors. Then inside the oven unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter to the burner. The old part came off very easily. However, the new part didn't have connectors attached, so I had to remember which wire went where and cut the old connectors off and splice them to the new. Be sure to leave yourself as much of the old wire as possible attached to the connector. Otherswise you might find the "new" wires too short to reach the connectors.

I reconnected the igniter to the main burner with the two screws. Then fed the burner and wires back into place. I then lightly screwed the single front screw on the burner (inside the oven) to help position the burner, then went underneath to install the other two screws.

Under the oven I made sure the wires fit onto their connectors then tightened the two screws to hold the burner to the back wall. Once the burner was properly in place I tightened the two screws and the single one inside the oven.

I then plugged the oven back in and turned on the gas flow. I turned the oven dial and watched the new igniter glow wonderfully.

Finally I replaced the porcelain floor cover inside the oven. These finger screws can be a bit tricky because they go into a threaded clip that might have moved while you worked. The whole task took less than 30 minutes - and I had never done this before.

This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.

The repair was fairly straight forward.

Step 1: Remove the storage drawer from below the oven and disconnect A/C power.
Step 2: Using nutdriver, remove the 2 machine screws in the front and 2 on the sides that hold the silver cover plate under the oven.
Step 3: Disconnect the 2 wires going to the igniter and remove the 2 bolts holding the igniter to the burner assembly.
Step 4: After removing the defective igniter, cut the connectors off the old igniter.
Step 5: Strip the wire on the connectors back the appropriate length and connect them to the new igniter with the supplied ceramic wire nuts.
Step 6: Reinstall new igniter into the buner assembly and reconnect wires.
Step 7: Before reinstalling the cover plate, plug A/C power back in and test that the igniter glows orange and the main gas valve opens.
Step 8: Assuming your test light worked, reinstall cover plate using 4 screws and put the storage drawer back in place.

The 2 bolts that attach to the burner were at a difficult angle to get at, other than that it was relatively easy.

First I removed the oven racks. Then I loosened the two screws in the back of the oven floor and figured out how to remove it. Then I loosened the two screws at the front of the diverter and, with some pushing and pulling and twisting, was able to get that to come out, too. Then I tried lighting the oven and noticed that the igniter was not glowing. When I saw that the upper (broiler) burner was working fine, I hoped that the problem was the lower igniter itself. I checked the wires and they seemed fine. I saw that two bolts held the igniter onto its bracket, so with a socket wrench (which size I got right on the first guess!) I removed those bolts and the igniter came loose. I found the connecter for the wires when I removed the drawer under the oven and was able to pull it apart easily. The igniter came out completely. There was nothing unusual about it, but I decided to take a chance and order a new one, hoping that replacing it would solve the problem. I put the rest of the oven together and waited. About three days later the part arrived (it was sent on a holiday; FedEx is soooo much better than USPS). I retraced the steps of taking the oven apart, put the two bolts into the new igniter to attach it to the bracket, and went back underneath behind the drawer to connect the wires. Then came the moment of truth: I tried turing on the oven. I held the button down to keep the light off, and after a few seconds I saw it: IT GLOWED!! It worked!! After yelling a satisfying "YEAH!!," I turned it off, put back the drawer, the diverter (more pulling and pushing and twisting), and the oven floor. Now it's all working perfectly and it took a very short time to fix. And a little luck that the problem was with such a simple part.

I had to pull the strorage drawer under the stove out to get at the electric connection for the ignitor. Then I removed the plate that coveres the burner and ignitor, and used a nut driver to remove the ignitor screws. I had to cut off the quick wire connectors from the old ignitor because the new one is just bare wires. FYI this is how the ignitor comes from every place I looked at, not just part select.com. After using the provided wire nuts to connect the new ignitor wires to the old ignitor wires that still had the quick connectors attached I screwed the ignitor back on. Put the covers on and done. It probably took about 30 minutes and saved me a bunch of money instead of having to call someone to repair something this easy.

First I removed the door by lifting it off the hinge assemblies.

Then I removed the drawer to access the spring.

Removed the spring, noting which attachment hole was used.

Removed the hinge assembly with a Phillips screwdriver.

Replacef the unit.

Repeated for the other hinge assembly.

Note: it took longer to find the correct parts in the parts diagrams than it did to replace them.

I pulled out the bottom drawer, took out the interior bottom panel, and disconnected the ignitor. This repair is pretty straight forward. The only note I would make is that the ignitor did not have plugs on the end of the wires you have to splice the new ignitor in. If there are plugs available to purchase for your model, you may want to pick them up instead of splicing.

My Hotpoint gas stove was not operating at normal temperature. This was operating in a basic range of 125 - 100 degrees below normal. After going through numerous troubleshooting posts, I came to the conclusion the sensor was my first place to check. I did not want to drop $100 for a sensor if I did not need to, therefore, I decided that I needed to know how many ohms the sensor registered in my stove. The sensor need to be 1100 ohms and after using my digital multi-meter,( Analog meter would do for this job as well) sure enough the sensor did register 1100 ohms. I then started troubleshooting other components such as igniter, gas values, etc... All resulting in everything testing out good. That is what really puzzled me. Other posts of people having similar symptoms as my oven always came back to the sensor as the problem. Then I noticed that the cleaning temperature of the sensor needed to be 2600 ohms or somewhere in that range. Therefore, I heated up the oven and tested the temperature of the heated sensor and my sensor registered 1650 ohms. I concluded that the sensor tested good at room temperature, however when heated up, it was not registering correctly. I took a chance and purchased the senor, installed the sensor, which was quite easy and only reqired removing a few screws inside the stove, removal of back panel, and unconnecting the wire attachments, and the oven now operates as new, and just in time for Thanksgiving. The really great thing was that I was a hero in the eyes of my wife this Thanksgiving.

Never having tried to repair an oven before, I was a little nervous about attempting this myself. First I had to determine why the oven burners would not light, and by observing the way the broiler burner system worked, I could quickly tell that the problem was the igniter. After reading the repair stories here, I convinced myself that I too could fix this without calling a repair tech, and I ordered the part I needed.

A couple of days later the part arrived and I began the repair. First I emptied the oven of the racks and removed the door. (I learned how to do that here. I would never have guessed that all you need to do is lift it up.) Next I removed the bottom drawer and then the oven floor. That panel is held in place by two machine screws at the back and is inserted in a lip across the front. (All the screws to be removed in this whole job were 1/4-inch hex head.)

Now I had access to the igniter in the oven and to its wiring below. The igniter is attached to the oven burner with two screws. It is almost impossible to get to those screws with the burner mounted, so next I dismounted it. It is attached by a single screw at the front and by two screws underneath and attached to the back wall. With those screws removed, the whole assembly comes free and is only connected to the oven by the two wires from the igniter. Leave those attached.

I removed the two screws attaching the old igniter to the burner and replaced the igniter with the new one. The new igniter must be spliced into the wires from the old igniter. I cut one wire close to the body of the old igniter, stripped the end and used the supplied wire nut to attach the same wire from the new igniter to it. Then I did the same for the other wire. Doing it one at a time like that helps make sure the wiring doesn't get crossed since there is no visual difference between the two wires.

With the new igniter now in place, I reinstalled the burner assembly into the oven, attaching the two screws in the back and the one in front, and making sure all the excess wire from the igniter was out of the oven space itself to avoid problems from heat. Then I tested the system by turning on the oven. In a couple of seconds the igniter glowed like it should and the burner lit. Yay!

Then it was just put everything back together by putting the floor in (slide front under lip, attach screws in back), replacing the drawer and then the door and finally the racks. It actually takes longer to describe what I did than it did to do it. Elapsed time for a complete novice was about 15 minutes.

I followed the instructions I came across on this website (i.e., First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires). Removing the screws was difficult until I went to reinstall the igniter and relized you can pull the burner out all the way and quickly install the screws.

I pulled the range out from the wall so that I could unplug the power card. (I eventually discovered that I didn't need to pull it out from the wall--there is a separate plug under the stove, behind the bottom drawer, that I could have simply unplugged instead.)

I removed the bottom drawer of the range then removed the racks and bottom tray from the oven. I then removed the baffle above the oven burner by removing two screws. At this point I could see the igniter. I removed the two screws that attach the igniter mounting bracket to the back of the oven. I removed one screw that attaches the igniter to the mounting bracket. At this point I pulled the igniter out several inches and cut the wires where they were attached with ceramic wire nuts.

I stripped about 1/2 inch insulation from the wires coming through the back of the oven and used the new ceramic wire nuts to attach the new igniter. I then reversed the above steps to complete the repair. I had read someone else's repair report and took their advice to lift out the burner pipe to get more working room during disassembly and reassembly.

The unnecessary steps that I took were: (1) Pulling the stove from the wall. (I could have unplugged it from another plug at the bottom of the stove.) (2) I took the cover off the electronics box-- two screws--underneath the stove because I thought I needed to get access to the wires, but that was not necessary.

The parts list claims that the oven igniter is very fragile. I disassembled the old one (and I mean I really took it apart!) and I found that it was quite rugged mechanically. The failure appeared to have been an internal connection from the wires to the heating element. I don't think it is very fragile to handle.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires