SF262LXST0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
oven wouldn't heat
My oven was misdiagnosed from an appliance repair company. They said my ignitors and spark module needed to be replaced. I did this myself and still nothing. The problem happened to be a defective gas valve.
First I unplugged the stove and shut off the gas supply. After I disconnected the flex hose and the 2 gas connections behind the stove, I removed the 4 screws that held the valve to the back of the stove.
I went to the front of the appliance and pulled out the bottom drawer. This exposed the valve from the other side. I disconnected the electrical connections (3 colored wires) to the valve and removed it. I re-attached the new valve, putting everything back in reverse order. I made sure the 3 wires were reconnected correctly by labeling each one before disconnecting them. I made certain that my gas connections were sealed by using teflon tape and/or pipe sealant from the hardware store. I turned the shutoff valve back to the on position and checked for leaks. If I smelled gas I snugged it down a bit more until no gas smell was detected.
There was nothing wrong with the ignitors or the spark module. The stove failed to pre-heat and the "tick-tick" I used to hear when the stove was first turned on was nonexistent. What the so-called experts said would be hundreds of dollars to fix unded up being a $90 part.
First I unplugged the stove and shut off the gas supply. After I disconnected the flex hose and the 2 gas connections behind the stove, I removed the 4 screws that held the valve to the back of the stove.
I went to the front of the appliance and pulled out the bottom drawer. This exposed the valve from the other side. I disconnected the electrical connections (3 colored wires) to the valve and removed it. I re-attached the new valve, putting everything back in reverse order. I made sure the 3 wires were reconnected correctly by labeling each one before disconnecting them. I made certain that my gas connections were sealed by using teflon tape and/or pipe sealant from the hardware store. I turned the shutoff valve back to the on position and checked for leaks. If I smelled gas I snugged it down a bit more until no gas smell was detected.
There was nothing wrong with the ignitors or the spark module. The stove failed to pre-heat and the "tick-tick" I used to hear when the stove was first turned on was nonexistent. What the so-called experts said would be hundreds of dollars to fix unded up being a $90 part.
Parts Used:
-
Ignatius from Hazelwood, MO
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Wrench (Adjustable)
98 of 109 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
temperature not accurate after 3 1/2 years of happy usage
Opened up the back of the stove. Unpluged the sensor. Replaced the sensor. Replace the back of the stove.
The sensor that has been replaced is not what is expected. After reading all of the instructions for adjusting the temperatures, the only temp that stays steady is when we first turn on the oven to 350 degrees. That stays steady but when I turn it to 400 it slowly goes up to 425 degrees.
The sensor that has been replaced is not what is expected. After reading all of the instructions for adjusting the temperatures, the only temp that stays steady is when we first turn on the oven to 350 degrees. That stays steady but when I turn it to 400 it slowly goes up to 425 degrees.
Parts Used:
-
Ruth from Oregon, IL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
137 of 245 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
mice had made nests in the insulation wrap in the range
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.
Parts Used:
-
Wendy from Red Hook, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Screw drivers
98 of 133 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Replace shattered outer door glass
This is not the best design. You'll need to have an extra set of hands to hold the trim pieces in place. Remember the glass is positioned outside [on top of]the trim pieces. Be careful as the trim pieces are rather brittle and can be hard to locate in their proper position. Position glass in the holding tabs at the bottom, hold glass against the trim pieces and gently position door handle over glass and trim.The handle holds everything together. No instructions are shipped w/ parts.
Parts Used:
-
Philip from Vandalia, MI
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
83 of 101 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Bake/broil would not work
Replaced igniter and also DSI/direct spark igniter did not fix problem. Called out repairman turned out to be bad gas valve. Replaced that part , now stove works fine.
Parts Used:
-
Greg from North Baltimore, OH
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
77 of 120 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
E1 F5 Error on display
After reading many forums found that this error happens when trying to clean the oven and there is a failure in the latch motor to lock the oven door. It was suggested 1st to just tunr the breaker off to the over wait and then turn it back on to see if the error would clear by itself. If not then you'll have to do what I did and buy a new Latch Motor and replace it. Fairly easy to do:
) Move oven to get to the back panel
) Disconnect oven from power
) Remove the 8 screws to get the back panel off
) REmove the Latch motor screws (2) and remove the motor after twisting to get the latch rod off
) Put in new latch motor by 1st putting the latch rod in the motor assembly
) Screw the new motor in place
) Replace back panel
) Power on Oven
DONE!
) Move oven to get to the back panel
) Disconnect oven from power
) Remove the 8 screws to get the back panel off
) REmove the Latch motor screws (2) and remove the motor after twisting to get the latch rod off
) Put in new latch motor by 1st putting the latch rod in the motor assembly
) Screw the new motor in place
) Replace back panel
) Power on Oven
DONE!
Parts Used:
-
Gregory from Thornton, CO
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
41 of 48 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Socket Light had a bad thread
Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover
Parts Used:
-
Edmund from Emporium, PA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
44 of 61 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Scratches in Surface
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
Parts Used:
-
Michelle from Richardson, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
65 of 128 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
spark igniter was weak and not lighting the flame.
Open top oven door and remove the 2 front screws which hold the burners and controls to the frame. DO NOT lift the burners more than an inch or so to look inside. You WILL bend the gas lines in the back if you do. Pull out stove from the wall, shut off gas supply and disconnect hose if needed to have room to work. Remove top back panel and remove the 3 wires connecting the top burner assembly and also remove the 2 gas lines. Now you will be able to remove the burner assembly safely. Flip it over and try to unscrew the screw holding the igniter. When you fail, drill it out and get a small metal screw to replace it. The metal is soft and the screw is hard, so drill carefully. The rest is easy, put in the new igniter and screw. and put it back together.
Parts Used:
-
Daniel from Needham, MA
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
38 of 52 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
drawer broke and annoying my wife
screwed in the new glide by taking out old broken one and screwing in new one. wife happy now.
Parts Used:
-
John from Jamestown, OH
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
33 of 38 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Replace glass front on oven door
Since no instructions are provided with the part and not having seen the oven with the glass door in place, the major problem was figuring out how things went together. The top handle MUST be removed and the bottom trim need not be (although I had already done so). After removing the top handle the glass slips into the bottom trim easily, but the edges set ON TOP of the side plastic trims (left and right), not under the edge as it would appear if you have never seen the original door in place. Properly positioning the glass door then lets the top handle slip back on and the two screws replaced to hold it all to gether. Another pair of hands helps hold it all together until the top handle is fixed back in place. It's quite simple in reality, and instructions would have made it so.
Parts Used:
-
Donald from Wilton, CT
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
29 of 34 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Oven stuck in cleaning mode
Google the error code that the range was displaying and found others with the same symptoms. Then found several people that had fixed the problem by replacing the oven sensor. I then ordered the sensor and replaced it, which fixed the problem.
Parts Used:
-
Hal from Santa Rosa, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
46 of 86 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Shattered outer oven door glass
We removed the door from oven assembly and laying it flat on the bench removed the stainless steel cover from the rest of the door. Removing the shattered pieces of safety glass was done heating and scraping off vinyl tape.(difficult.)Caution! Do not allow any pieces of glass get under the stainless steel cover, it will leave ugly scratches! We purchased double sided vinyl tape 1/2" wide, 1/16" thick and aluminum "Flue tape" (600 deg. F) 1 1/2" wide from local hardware store to replace the original ones in their previous location. Fitting the new glass on sticky tape has to be done accurately. (no problem). Assembling it was little tricky but still within the ability of a do-it-selfers. We wondered if we should not put the rough side of the glass facing in or out. The original was with the smooth side out so that what we did. If any additional scraping of accumulated grease is needed especially on the inside glass, it requires more disassembly, but we would strongly suggest doing it (we did), while it is all opened. To our surprise the glass arrived by Fed Ex within 24 hours of ordering and now our Whirlpool is gleaming like new again. The cost of this product with shipping/handling by PartsSelect was much lower than ordering it from the other "original" source. Thank you! Sincerely Fred T.
Parts Used:
-
Frederick from La Grange, IL
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Screw drivers
28 of 38 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Ignitor on main burner would not create a spark
Having no manual nor finding any instructions online, I spent a while trying to figure out how to safely get to the ignitor mounting screw under the range top. I popped the snap clips on either side of the stove to loosen the top and pulled the top up a few inches to see why it was being difficult to raise. It turns out that the gas piping was solidly attached from the controls to the burners and I was slightly bending the tubes as the top was raised. The tubes have angles and curves to "accept" the bending pressure I was applying, so it looked like I was doing the right thing. In case I was not doing the right thing, however, I raised the top only enough to get access to the ignitor base and mounting screw. Then the fun began as the screw would not loosen. After several attempts using liquid wrench, tapping on it, etc., the screw head finally just broke off. Uh-ohhhh. Not to worry, however, as there was an empty mounting hole right next to the old one that appeared to be able to work. The mounting screw for the new ignitor was backordered, so I tried a couple dozen different screws I had in my toolkit and finally found one that would fit width-wise, but I had to nip off some of the length to get it to seat properly. The replacement ignitor also had a different width blade connector than the original so I had to grind away some of its width to reattach it to the lead wire. If I had a different sized blade receiver, I would have instead replaced the receiver on the end of the lead wire. It took about 90 minutes in all.
Parts Used:
-
Michael from Bloomington, IL
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
28 of 38 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
stove will not start no spark or gas
part did not fix the problem, may be gas regulater ,well if you are changing this part,not to bad .remove the knobs bottom screws and two side screws front cover flips up and off ,the ignition control is in front of you right side ,remove the one screw that is looking at and everything slides out .i turned off the gas and elec and removed the gas line and carefully laid the stove on it back.made it easier ,good luck
Parts Used:
-
HERBERT from ISELIN, NJ
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
49 of 102 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!