Your washer uses 4 tub dampening straps. It is recommended to replace all 4 at the same time. They keep the tub in the center of the cabinet and are sold individually.
This is a washing machine agitator coupling kit. It connects the transmission drive shaft to the agitator base. It includes the couple, gasket, and bolt.
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. This seal is difficult to replace and should probably ...
This part is a replacement fabric softener dispenser for your washer. If your washer will not dispense fabric softener or detergent, or will not agitate, you may need to replace the dispenser. When it...
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Questions And Answers for S4200B0WW
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Gary
March 9, 2020
Washer fills won’t agitate or spin but it will pump water out
For model number S4200B0WW
Hi Gary,
Thank you for your question. If the washer will not spin or agitate, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the lid switch, the belt and the motor. You will need to do a visual inspection of the belt to see if it is damaged and that it is properly in place. For the lid switch and the motor, you will need to test the parts with a multi-meter.
For the lid switch, disconnect your washing machine from the power source as you will be handling electrical components. Remove the appliance’s cabinet in order to locate the switch. Once you have located it, carefully remove it from the washer. Removing the wires by grasping the metal connectors and not the wires themselves. Set your multi-meter to the Rx1 setting, place the probes on the timer contacts (as noted by your wiring diagram) and press and hold down on the switch’s button. You are testing for continuity and should receive a reading of zero or nearly zero. If you do not receive this reading, you will need a replacement start switch. For the motor, make sure that the washer is unplugged and and then remove the cabinet of your washer. Locate and remove the drive motor in order to test it. Use caution when disconnecting the wires attached to the motor, lightly grasp the metal connectors when removing them, do not pull directly on the wires. Using a multi-meter on the Rx1 setting, touch the terminals of the motor with the meter’s probes. You are testing for continuity and should receive a reading of zero or close to zero. With one probe still touching the terminal, touch the other probe to the bare metal housing of the motor. You are testing the ground connection and should not receive any reading from this test. If your tests produce readings that are different from those above, you need a replacement drive motor. If you are not familiar with using a multi-meter, here is a link to one of our videos on YouTube that you may use as a general reference on how to operate one, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWC44fHn0As. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
I replaced the coupling by only having to remove one bolt with a socket wrench. Once replaced I installed the new assy over the coupling making sure ro align the splines then pushing down until the assy snapped into place. Easy.
1. Drained the wash tub by taking the drain hose from the back of the washing machine and dropping it below the tub - water flowed out of hose a lot easier than trying to suck water out of tub using a pump (tried this on the first time I tried to fix washer). (Washing machine on 2nd floor of house and didn't want water running on floor) 2. Removed the 2 bolts holding the Pump/Motor assembly to the machine. 3. Removed both hose clamps on the Pump/Motor assembly and removed Pump. 4. Attached the new drain inlet hose to the pump and then to the tub with the original hose clamps. 5. Attached the drain hose to the pump and then plugged in the 2 wires for the pump. 6. Plugged in the washing machine and everything worked.
NOTES: 1. Hardest part was working with hose clamps (spring type clamps) in the tight space under the machine. 2. Easier to fix since I pulled machine apart a few days before - removing the clog in the pump/motor assembly only to get everything back together to find out that the motor was dead. Still well worth the time and effort due to not having to go out and buy a new Machine...
first remove the front washer cover by finding the two pressure clips that hold it to the top lid. gently push the putty knife into the clips one at a time. this will raise and separate them from the front panel. the panel will tilt forward and u can now remove it from the bottom clips by sliding it up and out. to open the top cover u remove the two 1/4 in screws on the sides of the front panel and lift the top. make sure to secure it in place or unplug the single electrical connection at the rear and remove the whole top from the clips, its really simple and the most convenient mehtod. to remove the straps u can now get to all four without much interference. there are two size screw heads so make sure u have a nut driver or small socket set. after changing the straps i went to change the agitator coupling. the agitator pulled directly up without a problem. just put your two hands under and pull straight up with one good jolt. the plastic coupler has one bolt in the middle that came out easily with a small socket set. my problem arose when the plastic coupler would not come off the metal shaft. after a short time of pulling and prying i finally decided to cut it off. using a small hacksaw and taking my time i put two cuts into the coupler. they were on opposite sides and where vertical, running along the steel shaft. i could now split it in two and it came off very easily and quickly. now when putting on the new one make sure the splines line up. push as far down as u can then use the center bolt to seat the gear all the way down. the agitator also has to be lined up just right. it also has splines on the interior that allow it to line up with the coupler and merely push down until it reseats itself in place. replace the top of the washer and then the front panel. don't forget to rebolt the top panel to the frame. push the front panel in until it snaps into place. full replacement time was about 40 minutes and actually not bad with the right tools.
