RLT359 Range - Instructions

removed the screws holding the back metal panel, this exposed the wires to the switch. tested the wires to find that they were live when the switch was in the off position. ordered a new switch. UNPLUGED THE STOVE. removed the knob on the front of the stove. this exposed 2 screws, removed screws and the switch came away from the stove. removed each wire from the old switch and replaced them in the same position on the new switch. inserted new switch into the stove and attached the 2 screws. replaced back panel and pluged in stove. all tested well

We felt the only possible problem could be the switch assembly. I removed the switch panel, removed the wires from the old switch, one at a time, removed the old switch assembly and installed the new switch assembly. The extended stem did have to be snapped off (per your instructions) and that too was a very simple task.

Pull unit away from wall.
Unplug power
remove topmost four screws from rear metal cover
Pull knob off switch shaft.
Remove two screws holding switch to panel.
Break off shaft of new switch to correct length.
Remove each wire from old switch and attach to Corresponding lug on new switch.
Reattach the new switch to the panel and reverse the first four instructions.

Removed two screws that held the unit in then pulled out a few inches so I could see where the 5 wires were. Then I replaced one at a time till done. then replaced the retaining screws.

Easy.... UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE 240 VOLT OUTLET & READ THE DIRECTIONS THAT COME WITH THE NEW PART !! Removed upper rear cover panel 8 screws & removed panel, removed knob & 2 screws from front of control unit (on the control panel), pulled the control off the panel from the rear, removed the wires on the rear of control & connected them to the SAME terminals on the new control (one at a time). Then installed the new control by reversing the procedure above. Took about 15 minutes. IMPORTANT HINTS: 1) Make sure you save the little black pressure clip from the control stem on the new control, if you need to break-off the little part at the end of the stem. You will need to push the clip back into the recess on the new stem, in order for the knob to stay on the stem when you put it back on; 2) Use a needle-nose plier to pull the wire clips from the old control terminals & push them onto the same terminals on the new control, one at a time so the wiring is correct.

Puled out the electical plug . Removed the back panel. Pulled off the switch knob. Removed the 2 screws holding the switch. Took the wires off of the old switch and placed them on the corespondig connector on the new switch. Put everything back in reverse order.

The dishrack came in one box I opened the box snapped on the rollers and the bumpers and put it in the dishwasher, could not have been easier Thank you partselect

If your stove work's but your oven won't get hot it is your ignigter the ignighter in proper working condition sends a signal to the gas valve saying let the gas flow its ok. When the ignighter quits working it won't let the gas flow and your oven will not get hot. It is an easy fix. Just pull out all of interior parts the racks and the bottom heat shield the ignighter the white stone looking part that is screwed to the burner with two wires and it really don't matter what way the wires go back one of the wires connects in the back so you will have to pull the oven out. Now you have to clean under it and your done.

removed drawer below oven, reached under stove and unplugged from outlet, pulled stove out from between cabinets, removed the 8 screws with 5/16 nutdriver from back panel and removed the panel, removed knob from switch , measured length of stem on old switch and compared it to the new switch ( my old switch stems was shorter than the new one so using a pair of pliers I shortened stem per instructions that came with new switch, this was very easy to do ), removed the two screws holding switch to stove and removed the old switch, then I transfered one wire at a time from the old switch to the new one until I had all the wires connected to the new one, used same two screws holding old switch to the stove to mount the new switch to the stove and put knob from old switch onto the new one, installed back panel to stove using the same 8 screws, pushed stove back into place between the cabinets and plugged the stove into the outlet, put drawer back in place below oven door, reset clock and tried out the new switch, so far so good only time well tell if I fixed my problem because it only happens once in awhile

I pulled off the old clips and easily replaced them with the new clips and popped on the wheels.
I replaced 8 clips and 8 wheels in less than 15mins

Removed oven door and burner guard. Removed screws holding ignitor bracket and small panel beneath oven door. Disconnected ignitor wires behind panel and pulled out ignitor. Removed old ignitor from bracket and inserted new unit. Fed wires back down thru tubing and screwed in bracket. Connected wires and replaced panel. (Note: old ignitor glowed but would not pass enough current to operate gas valve)

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

unplug the oven and pull it away from the wall. looking at the oven from the back, the spark module is at the bottom on the lower left. there is a two piece sheetmetal cover over the area of the spark module. use a phillips head screwdriver to remove five screws and the covers come off. the spark module is the blue cube with four push on wire connectors. all you have to do is hold the new one next to the old one and swap one wire at a time. both were clearly marked with identical numbers and letters. really nothing to it. it took me longer to clean the back of the oven than to replace the module. the old module was eaton part number Y-54052-3. the new one is eaton part number Y-054052-34.

There were no instructions with the part, but looking at the old rack it was simple to see how the parts should be assembled. Took the center part from the old rack, twisted off, and applied it to the center of the new rack. Snapped on the wheels and was done. Very simple assembly.

Had to remove the 4 range knobs, and the oven knob and then the facie. Two screws under the end caps and two on each side from the back on each end. Design defect: one of these screws which attaches through the frame to the facie also attaches the support which holds up the range top. Take that one off last. Remove the two wires that attach to the oven light switch. After detaching the power supply to the defective ignition unit, it just pulls right off. Push the new switch on over the knob shaft and reassemble.