PDWF600R30WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions
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Washing machine would cease functioning at the spin cycle and would not drain.
Remove the front coverfrom the machine. This is done by removing the 3 screws at the bottom of the panel. The panel then drops down and pulls straight off. The pump is located on the front right wall of the of the machine. You will notice a 2-3 inch diamete threaded cap on the right side of the front wall of the machine. This is the front of the pump and access to the filter. Place a large bucket under this cap and slowly loosen the cap. All of the water remaining in the machine will begin to drain (this could be a lot of water. Do not remove the cap completely so that you can quickly stop the flow of water if needed). Once all water is drained from the appliance, Disconnect the two hoses from the pump using a pair of pliers to looses the presure clamps, sliding the clamps back an then pulling off the hoses (be careful of any remaining water in the hoses). Then remove the two screws from the rear base of the pump that secure it to the bottom floor panel of the washer. Slide the pump slightly to the rear to free it from the fittings on the front wall of the machine and the lift the pump up. At this point, firmly pull out the wiring harness plugged into the top right side of the pump. Install the new pump by plugging in the wiring harness and resecuring the pump. Plug in the machine and run on the rinse and spin cycle to test.
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Trent from Shreveport, LA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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soap door latch broken, wouldn't hold soap for later release in middle of cycle like it was supposed to.
Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the door.
Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the door.
Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.
Parts Used:
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James from Naperville, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Heating element rusted and cracked
The hardest part for me was pulling the dishwasher out from under the countertop. Once it is out all you have to do is disconnect the power (or power off the fuse going to the dishwasher) then look underneath the dishwasher and you will see where the two ends of the heating element come through. Disconnect the wires connected to the ends by simply sliding off the connector. Then remove the plastic "nuts" that screw onto the ends of the heating element by turning them counterclockwise counterclockwise. Once the nuts are removed you can reach inside the dishwasher and remove the old heating element and replace it with the new one. Then simply replace the plastic nuts and reconnect the wires and you are good to go.
Parts Used:
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Jason from Jersey City, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
88 of 94 people
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pump would not pump water out of washer
I took the two drain hoses off with the pliers then only two screws that holds the pump. After that the two hot wires which are black and white. But remember to unplug you're washer since the pump is not grounded you don't want to risk being shocked. Hope thi helps. Plus i saved around 250.00 by repairing myself.
Parts Used:
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John from Farnham, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
77 of 101 people
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Water leak, small puddle to front left of dishwasher
You'll need to remove the front toe kick and (if installed, the GE Profile baffling for additional silencing action).
You will need to disconnect the right wire connection to access the right screw (and may need to use a flat head screwdriver). You can then remove the 2 screws that hold the Valve Water Inlet on.
You will then need to loosen and the hose clamp that attaches the water line to the Valve Water Inlet. You may need to force it undone since the rubber connection is pretty secure around the water tube inlet.
Disconnect the plastic wire housing from the Valve Water Inlet and you should now have the Valve Water Inlet disconnected.
Reverse the order and reconnect everything and you should be good to go!
Double-check for any leaks prior to pushing everything back in :)
You will need to disconnect the right wire connection to access the right screw (and may need to use a flat head screwdriver). You can then remove the 2 screws that hold the Valve Water Inlet on.
You will then need to loosen and the hose clamp that attaches the water line to the Valve Water Inlet. You may need to force it undone since the rubber connection is pretty secure around the water tube inlet.
Disconnect the plastic wire housing from the Valve Water Inlet and you should now have the Valve Water Inlet disconnected.
Reverse the order and reconnect everything and you should be good to go!
Double-check for any leaks prior to pushing everything back in :)
Parts Used:
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Greg from Burlington, VT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
64 of 84 people
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Glasses and Cups contained baked on sand after washing.
Removed the bottom tray, it just pulls straight out, once the tray was removed, the bottom revolving sprayer just lifts right off. Under this sprayer is a self-cleaning filter. There is a plastic piece that screws the filter into place, this part unscrewed easily by hand. Once unscrewed, the filter lifted straight up. I then reversed the process with the new filter and the problem was solved. Note: The old filter was full of sand and grime.
Parts Used:
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Brian from Newburyport, MD
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
55 of 63 people
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Leaking door when appliance working
I gently removed the old gasket and replaced it with no problem. The part just pushes into a channel in the washer side.
Parts Used:
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Thomas from Orlando, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
51 of 62 people
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White latch on soap dispenser broken- would not latch
1. Remove the outside panel on the door by removing 10 phillips screws on inside of door. Outside panel will drop loose - do not let it drop.
2. There are 3 electrical plugs that will have to be removed. The first is a 2" long quick connect in the upper middle of the door panel - it will pull straight out. Remember where it makes its connection. Now the exterior door panel will drop down to the floor, pivoting on two axle screws at the bottom. The interior panel can be left vertical for ease of access.
3. The other two electrical connections are on the left side of the old dispenser and can be removed with a simple pull to the left.
4. Remove the six (6) phillips screws from the panel that hold the dispenser in position. Two retainers will also drop off, which hold the dispenser top and bottom.
5. Angle the dispenser and work toward the inside of the dishwasher, turning as necessary to remove from the opening.
6. Reverse the process for installation. Remember to reconnect all three electrical connections.
2. There are 3 electrical plugs that will have to be removed. The first is a 2" long quick connect in the upper middle of the door panel - it will pull straight out. Remember where it makes its connection. Now the exterior door panel will drop down to the floor, pivoting on two axle screws at the bottom. The interior panel can be left vertical for ease of access.
3. The other two electrical connections are on the left side of the old dispenser and can be removed with a simple pull to the left.
4. Remove the six (6) phillips screws from the panel that hold the dispenser in position. Two retainers will also drop off, which hold the dispenser top and bottom.
5. Angle the dispenser and work toward the inside of the dishwasher, turning as necessary to remove from the opening.
6. Reverse the process for installation. Remember to reconnect all three electrical connections.
Parts Used:
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Alan from Marshall, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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sump inlet was partially dissolved
Disconnected electrics,plumbing, and removed DW.
Replaced sump inlet by removing about four clamps.
The inlet was partially dissolved. I think what lead to this is a partial clog, of broken glass and plastic. DW works fine.
Replaced sump inlet by removing about four clamps.
The inlet was partially dissolved. I think what lead to this is a partial clog, of broken glass and plastic. DW works fine.
Parts Used:
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John from North Haven, CT
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
40 of 43 people
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dishes were not coming clean. I found the pump that sprays water was not running
I noticed the circulation pump was not operating. If I turned the motor with a screw driver it would start running. I replaced the pump and now the dishwasher works like new. Very easy to replace the pump but you will have to pull out the dishwasher and turn on its back. I was able to confirm the circulation pump was the problem by observing the motor not running when it should but it would run once I turned the inside motor parts(be careful!). I also had to replace the center sprayer which again was very easy.
Parts Used:
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Nick from CARNATION,, WA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
38 of 44 people
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plastic hinge arm link broke causing door to flop open
First I had to unscrew screws under the counter then pulled built in dishwasher out from under the counter, attached hing arm link to right side bracket on door, and the other end I attatched to a spring at the back of the unit. Thats it! and pushed the dishwasher back into place. All back to normal....by the way Im a 67 yr old great grandmother...
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Margaret from Meridian, MS
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
28 of 35 people
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Noise, Poor cleaning
Turned power off, removed dishwasher, tipped on side, removed and installed pump asym, reinstalled
Parts Used:
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Vern from Orem, UT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
23 of 33 people
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Door handle actuator was broken.
I removed the screws on the inside of the door assembly, which allows the inside of the door to seperate from the outside. The escuchen (control panel) was easy to remove - the handle actuator is inside the control panel. The handle assembly was easy to take apart and re-assemble with the new handle and spring. I then inserted the control panel back into the outside door and reattached all of the screws with a power drill. This was a repair that a GE-authorized service tech told me was going to be over $540 - he claimed the control panel and door handle/actuator was a single assembly. In the end this repair cost me $14 in parts and 15 minutes of time. I complained to GE Consumer Affairs and they rebated the tech house call back to me in 5 business days.
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Stephen from Houston, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
20 of 28 people
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cap was melted
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Greg from Doon, IA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
16 of 17 people
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Soap dispenser latch broke - never worked right
This was a piece of cake. The original soap dispenser never worked right and always left unused soap. The new part was easy to install and works great. Only needed a 1/4" nut driver and philips screw driver to pull the outside panel and replace the module rinse and cap assy. Easy!
Parts Used:
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Steve from Lincoln, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
16 of 17 people
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