Models > PDWF600R30BB

PDWF600R30BB General Electric Dishwasher - Overview

Sections of the PDWF600R30BB

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Manuals & Care Guides for PDWF600R30BB

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Lower Rack Wheel – Part Number: WD12X10262
Lower Rack Wheel
PartSelect #: PS2322303
Manufacturer #: WD12X10262
This slotted wheel is sold individually. It is white in color and does not come with the attaching axle. This part has been redesigned, and may be wider than the original.
$8.12
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Silverware Basket – Part Number: WD28X10128
Silverware Basket
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(9)
PartSelect #: PS959351
Manufacturer #: WD28X10128
This is a basket for washing flatware or silverware in your dishwasher.
$67.92
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Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: WD15X10014
Water Inlet Valve
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(23)
PartSelect #: PS3654179
Manufacturer #: WD15X10014
This water inlet valve should be located behind the lower kickplate panel in either the right or left corner. The attaching solenoid on the valve open and close according to the desired amount of water needed.
$61.52
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Sump – Part Number: WD18X10026
Sump
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PartSelect #: PS959014
Manufacturer #: WD18X10026
This works in conjunction with the pump and filtration system. It is used to receive drainage for disposal.
$80.91
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Pump Connector – Part Number: WD18X10010
Pump Connector
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(3)
PartSelect #: PS259530
Manufacturer #: WD18X10010
The circulation pump adapter, or pump adapter assembly connects the circulation pump to the tub of your dishwasher. If your dishwasher is leaking around this adapter, check the connection to ensure ev...
$51.18
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Hinge Arm Link – Part Number: WD14X10009
Hinge Arm Link
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(13)
PartSelect #: PS259336
Manufacturer #: WD14X10009
The hinge link on your dishwasher connects the spring to the dishwasher door hinge. If the hinge link becomes cracked or damaged, you may not be able to shut or lock your dishwasher door properly. In ...
$10.89
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Upper Rack Wheel – Part Number: WD35X21036
Upper Rack Wheel
PartSelect #: PS11721507
Manufacturer #: WD35X21036
Comes with the axles.
  No Longer Available
Rinse Aid Cap – Part Number: WD12X10122
Rinse Aid Cap
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(6)
PartSelect #: PS958932
Manufacturer #: WD12X10122
This part holds the rinse aid liquid in the dispenser until the timer activates the rinse cycle.
$40.86
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Door Handle Actuator – Part Number: WD13X10045
Door Handle Actuator
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(4)
PartSelect #: PS2337860
Manufacturer #: WD13X10045
This is a handle actuator for your dishwasher. It is made of black plastic, and is sold individually. The handle actuator is found in the control panel, and it releases the door latch when you lift th...
$98.13
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Door Hinge Cable – Part Number: WD01X10393
Door Hinge Cable
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(7)
PartSelect #: PS2345660
Manufacturer #: WD01X10393
This part is the replacement door hinge cable for your dishwasher. The door hinge cable connects the door spring to the door hinge, and allows the door to open in a controlled fashion. If you open you...
$19.69
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Tub Gasket – Part Number: WD08X10032
Tub Gasket
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(2)
PartSelect #: PS958888
Manufacturer #: WD08X10032
This gasket lines the inside cabinet in the dishwasher.
$99.16
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Tine Retainer – Part Number: WD12X10116
Tine Retainer
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(1)
PartSelect #: PS958926
Manufacturer #: WD12X10116
This dishwasher retainer connects to the removable tine.
$10.28
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Questions And Answers for PDWF600R30BB

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Common Symptoms of the PDWF600R30BB

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Leaking
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Door latch failure
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Not cleaning dishes properly
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Will not dispense detergent
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Will Not Start
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Will not drain
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Will not fill with water
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Not draining
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Noisy
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Door won’t close
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Door Sweating
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Not drying dishes properly
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Door won’t open or close
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Frost buildup
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Not dispensing water
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Freezer section too warm
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Ice maker not making ice
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Freezer not defrosting
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Washing machine would cease functioning at the spin cycle and would not drain.
Remove the front coverfrom the machine. This is done by removing the 3 screws at the bottom of the panel. The panel then drops down and pulls straight off. The pump is located on the front right wall of the of the machine. You will notice a 2-3 inch diamete threaded cap on the right side of the front wall of the machine. This is the front of the pump and access to the filter. Place a large bucket under this cap and slowly loosen the cap. All of the water remaining in the machine will begin to drain (this could be a lot of water. Do not remove the cap completely so that you can quickly stop the flow of water if needed). Once all water is drained from the appliance, Disconnect the two hoses from the pump using a pair of pliers to looses the presure clamps, sliding the clamps back an then pulling off the hoses (be careful of any remaining water in the hoses). Then remove the two screws from the rear base of the pump that secure it to the bottom floor panel of the washer. Slide the pump slightly to the rear to free it from the fittings on the front wall of the machine and the lift the pump up. At this point, firmly pull out the wiring harness plugged into the top right side of the pump. Install the new pump by plugging in the wiring harness and resecuring the pump. Plug in the machine and run on the rinse and spin cycle to test.
Parts Used:
Motor and Drain Pump
  • Trent from Shreveport, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
151 of 179 people found this instruction helpful.
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soap door latch broken, wouldn't hold soap for later release in middle of cycle like it was supposed to.
Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the door.

Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.
Parts Used:
Detergent Dispenser with Rinse Cap
  • James from Naperville, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
100 of 105 people found this instruction helpful.
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Heating element rusted and cracked
The hardest part for me was pulling the dishwasher out from under the countertop. Once it is out all you have to do is disconnect the power (or power off the fuse going to the dishwasher) then look underneath the dishwasher and you will see where the two ends of the heating element come through. Disconnect the wires connected to the ends by simply sliding off the connector. Then remove the plastic "nuts" that screw onto the ends of the heating element by turning them counterclockwise counterclockwise. Once the nuts are removed you can reach inside the dishwasher and remove the old heating element and replace it with the new one. Then simply replace the plastic nuts and reconnect the wires and you are good to go.
Parts Used:
Heating Element
  • Jason from Jersey City, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
88 of 94 people found this instruction helpful.
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