If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This manufacturer-certified dryer lint filter is used to collect lint during the dryer cycle, to prevent damage to the machine and to prevent lint from sticking to clothes. This model comes in white a...
The blower wheel is a squirrel cage type wheel whose purpose is to move the air through the room or appliance. The blower wheel spins on the motor shaft to blow air through the dryer drum and out through the exhaust.
This part senses the flame for heat allowing the gas valve to open.This flame sensor is three inches long and is used for many gas clothes dryers.This flame sensor assembly is made of both plastic and metal.
This silicone carbide igniter with ceramic holder kit includes the 3" flat igniter, bracket, 4" wire leads, and the plug. It can replace both round and flat igniters. This kit is used for many gas clothes dryers.
This door seal does not include the adhesive glue.
$85.32
In Stock
Questions And Answers for NGD4655EW0
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Gerald
April 2, 2023
I’m looking for the two rollers and a belt kit.
For model number NGD4655EW0
Hello Gerald, thank you for your question. We do not see the rollers available as a separate part. The Belt is PS346995. However, there is a Kit PS373087 that is SPECIFIC for 29" wide Dryers built 1965 and later. The kit includes the drum belt, drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. We hope this helps.
My door latch to start the dryer is broken, not sure the name of the part i need
For model number NGD4655EW0
Hi Katie,
Thank you for your question. Based on your description, it sounds like you are referring to the door strike. The part number listed under your model number for the door strike is PS11741661. If you would like to place an order for it, you may order it either online or by calling our customer service line and anyone will be happy to assist you. We hope this helps! If you have any questions, please let us know.
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First I shut off the gas supply and disconnected the dryer vent and unpluged the unit so you can access the rear of the dryer. Then I removed the rear cover. This is where you will find your thermostats and fuses. Holding the new part next to the one to be replaced I transfer the wires one at a time so as not to get them mixed up, then unscrew the old part and install the new one. Insert a flat blade screwdriver under the top cover in the 2 front corners to unsnap it from it's clips, also at this time you need to remove the 2 screws that hold the upper part of the lint filter tube to the lid, then lift the lid to expose the drum ( I tilted the dryer back as far as the flex gas line would allow me to and rested the top lid against the wall without removing it, to many wires). Behind the front cover in the top right corner is the plug for the door switch,un-plug it and also there are 2 screws one in each corner. After that lift the front cover straight up and pull it away from the cabinet ( it has clips at the bottom to hold it in place). Reaching under the drum on the right side pull down on the belt tensioner and release the belt from the motor then you can remove the drum. Laying the drum down on it's front edge I removed the rear felt seal and took a piece of sand paper to rough up th old glue and clean off some of the felt that was still stuck to the drum. Following the directions from the seal package I put the glue around the edge of the drum and re-installed the new felt. This is a good time to clean out your dryer, while the glue sets up. A shop vac works the best, but be carefull not to suck up the money, it will help pay for the repair ( I found over a dollar in change ). At this time I also changed the coils on the gas valve, remove the 2 screws that hold the clamp and replace them one at a time. Re-install the drum with the belt on it, fold it and push it through the tensioner and put it on the motor pulley. rotate the drum to make sure that the felt is not kinked under itself, re-install the front cover bottom clips first, then the 2 screws and the plug for the door switch, pull down the lid and snap it in place, before installing the rear cover this is a good time to remove the rear cover to the lint chute and clean in there also ( it's easy to see why there are so many dryer fires). Re- install that cover and the rear cover and vent tube, turn your gas back on and check it for leaks ( even if you didn't disconnect it) plug your dryer back in and get busy catching up on the laundry that you haven't had a chance to do because your dryer broke, then smile and think about all the money you saved by doing this simple repair your self. Thanks Parts Select
1. Removed the screws from the lint catcher 2. Removed the bolts from upper rear of dryer 3. Pried off the dryer top from the front (it rests on rear hinges) 4. Disconnected dryer door wiring 5. Removed bolt from inside upper front corners; removed front panel (be careful: the edges are sharp and the tumbler will fall when it loses support) 6. Removed broken belt and lint from interior parts; removed tensioner (which had fallen out of place). Note: The newer models have a tensioner pulley; my older model had a smooth semicircle that was confusing at first glance 7. Flipped dryer onto its back (for easier reinsertion of new belt and tumbler) 8. Placed new belt on tumbler; reinserted tumbler 9. Inserted new belt through tensioner, inserted tensioner "legs" into grooves on floor. Note: The belt will pull the tensioner upright when it's inserted properly (which isn't obvious at first) 10. Made sure belt and tumbler seal were properly installed 11. Replaced parts in reverse order The process took over an hour because I couldn't figure out how to insert the belt through the tensioner. The trick is to insert the folded belt through the tensioner and onto the motor pulley. If I had to do it again, it would take about 30 minutes (including cleaning lint)
After looking on the website for advice I walked throught the simple steps of disassembling the front, removing the drum, removed the back, disconnected the wire harness. Then removed the blower housing in the back. The blower, mounted on the back side of the motor was very tight. I used a pipe wrench wedged in place and help by my 10 year old Grand-daughter while I used an adjustable wrench to turn the shaft on the front of the motor. Spun the blower off, removed the two clips holding the motor. Then reversed the process when I received the new motor. Care should be taken to avoid damaging the blower fan if a lot of pressure is required.