This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This kit includes one driver hub and two driven basket hubs. The basket hub is located under the agitator. If your washer is not agitating or spinning properly, the hubs will need to be replaced.
This kit includes the shaft, 3 bearings, seals , grease, adhesive and the spanner nut, which is NOT sold separately. Also may require a bearing driver tool to install. PS3503307
The suspension rod kit supports the wash drum and keeps it stable during unbalanced loads. If your washer is making a loud banging sound during the washing cycle, check to ensure the suspension rods a...
This part makes sure that the lid is shut before allowing the machine to start or agitate.
NOTE: This is a manufacturer substitution. Part may differ in appearance but is a functional equivalent to prior parts including
This rotary position sensor is a genuine OEM part for your washing machine. It helps to ensure the load of clothing stays balanced during the wash cycle. Customers have rated this repair as easy. To c...
This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
This is a replacement lid hinge for your washer. It is approximately 2.5 inches in length and 1.5 inches in width. The lid hinge is what the lid for your washer pivots on. If the lid hinge is damaged,...
This hose can handle hot or cold water and is five feet long.
$27.45
In Stock
Questions And Answers for MVWB700VQ0
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4 questions answered by our experts.
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Jerry
January 11, 2024
my stator has 4 fine line crack. Going from middle out. The cracks are perfectly space from each crack
For model number MVWB700VQ0
Hi Jerry, thank you for the question. Based on our research, the stator cracks are post injection stress relief cracks and will not cause any issues at all. These cracks appear soon after they are first used, as they are the result of stress relief. The compatible stator assembly for your model is part number PS11754517. We hope this information helps!
Thank you for the first question. When it go though the rinse , it drains completely then it dose a quarter turn left then right left then right. It will not go into a SPIN.?
For model number MVWB700VQ0
Hi Jerry, thank you for reaching out. Based on the description, the issue is probably because of the washer hub kit, part number PS11723155. It connects the spin basket to the spin shaft that spins the basket. We would recommend replacing the hub kit to fix the issue. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
I think I left some coins in the washer. Sometimes it makes noise like there are rocks tumbling around.
For model number MVWB700VQ0
Hello Steve, thank you for reaching out. If you have left the coins in the washer and its making noise, it may have slipped into your washer’s filter, in the rubber seal, or is simply spinning around in the drum. We would recommend checking underneath the rubber seal or in the tub. The largest risk to your machine is if the coins are in the rubber seal and are between the plastic tub and the washer drum. Also, check the lint filter and remove the coins if found. If this does not fix the issue, then replace the tub bearing kit, part number PS3503261, to fix the issue. Glad to be of assistance!
Stop running half way during draining cycle with normal load. Will function normal after removing some clothing.
What could be the problem?
Thanks
For model number MVWB700VQ0
Hello Kiet, thank you for the question. Our research shows that you may need to check the following parts to fix the issue: sensor, part number PS11749664, basket hub kit, part number PS11723155, and drain pump, part number PS5136124. If you need help placing an order for it, please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
Disconnect power, hot/cold supply and drain hose. Tip washer onto front side, expect some additional water to leak out. Remove the cracked drain pump, 3 screws, hose clamps, and electrical plug.
Tip washer back up, use the putty knife to pop the top cover up (clips are about 6.5in in from sides). Unclip the white plastic cover over the outer and inner tubs. Pop the center cap from inside the inner tub, exposing the bolt holding the inner tub down. Remove bolt, pull inner tub up and out.
At bottom of outer tub remove 2 screws from drain access cover, should find some change under there (or in the pump).
Re-assemble using new pump.
Note: Before new pump arrived I was able to use some silicone sealant, epoxy, and black tape to temporarily fix the cracked pump housing after pulling it out.
You better be confident in your repair abilities before you try this. Get the washer to a large open area, like your garage, because there are a lot of parts. Take off the back, pop the top, unsnap and remove the top ring off outer tub, take out the agitator, take out the inner tub, disconnect the pumps and electrical wires, take screw out of rotor on bottom and remove rotor, take out 4 bolts to remove motor magnet ring, and now you may be ready to unhook the outer tub from the 4 supports (springs) and lift it out of the metal frame. Then unscrew the bottom nut on the shaft, use blocks to hold the tub in place, and carefully tap the old shaft and bearings out. The instructions that came with the kit helped. The shaft and top seal comes out the top first. Then you can tap out upper bearing and then the lower bearing and spacers.Instructions called for a special tool to install the bearings but you can carefully tap them in. You will need blocks to support the tub while you tap them. First block under the tub and install top bearing, then flip over and use several blocks to hold tub while you drop the shaft, spacers, and tap lower bearing in. I did not need to tap on the inner ring of the bearings, just the outer ring. Be very careful not to damage the seal in the bearings. That's why you must tap them in careful and slow. Them install the nut on the bottom. You need to hold the shaft with damaging it while you tighten the nut. I used the hard nylon gear from the inner tub which I was replacing with a new one. Then put it all back together.
The actual install of the pump was extremely easy. I removed the back cover, (After unhooking water, drain and electricity. I laid the machine on its front ( USE CAUTION WHEN DOING THIS, THERE ARE SHARP EDGES on the FRAME) After bandaging my cut fingers, I used a nut-driver/screwdriver to remove the screws, pliers to remove the Spring clamps, unhooked the wiring( its a single plug in) and reverse the procedure for installing.
I saw where a person had put the screws in the filter below the tub. I had to find the clips on the front of the machine, (about 7 in in from the sides) I removed the nut cover on the agitator, used a socket to remove the agitator, tub, and a nut driver to remove the filter. I found 3 areas where coins could get through the drain filter, and I used self tapping screws to make an obstruction that water could get through but not the coins. I reinstalled tub. Before re installing the agitator, I got some fiber glass window screening and cut a piece to go over the drain slots in the bottom of the tub but under the agitator, then reinstalled the agitator.
I noticed that the new pump had more re enforcing at the areas where the 1st pump broke. I doubt that it will break, but I am not taking any chances. I put the screen in to prevent the coins from getting to the drain filer 1st and the back up was the screws in the drain filter.