MVW8230HC0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Pushed in on door strike and rotated it counterclockwise, removed broken strike and installed new strike. NOTE: when removing the old strike (turning counterclockwise) it felt like it might break and/or was attached with an screw that I didn't see but it came right out.

Super easy repair, simply turn the broken door strike counterclockwise to remove; insert the new door strike into the slots and turn clockwise to lock into place.

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

The valve is a 4 solenoid valve, which has Temp. sensor molded into the valve body mixer center outlet. No mention of it in the troubleshooting. it has a 2 pin plug. it was shorted zero ohms.
New one measure open infinity. I also purchased the control module as the troubleshooting said to if solenoid checked good which all 4 read 1310 ohms , i purchased and replaced control module, no help. the guide is outdated for these new high tech washers. If this happens again. I will just unplug the 2 pin plug on bottom of valve assembly. By the way the 2 clips that hold the washer top in place are very difficult to remove and re install.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Ordered this part 3 times over a period of several months and never received it. Only would get emails saying it was out of stock and would be sent soon. Eventually had to but a whole new washer. Will never recomend this company or another Maytag product.

The repair went really well. And it was the right part and now we can have light in our fridge.
Thank you!
Your help and fast shipping really made a difference. I will always shop for my parts with you guys. Thank you for having things no store has. It saves alit of money all around.
Thank you again.

Using a pair of pliers turn counter clockwise to remove broken part. Install the new part by turning clockwise. Soooo easy with install time of less than a minute.

The door strike part was very simple to remove. 15 seconds at most...Part ordered and delivered a day early. Install of new part was again about 15 seconds and Wala....job completed. Thanks for the great service....will call again when needed....

Washer would start cycle and return a CL error. No water would flow into the tub. Researched problem and probable cause. Ordered new water inlet valve. Once received, disconnected water hoses and electric plug and removed rear upper access panel (5 screws). Used thin putty knife under sides of front control panel to disengage spring clips. Once access to the faulty valve was attained, removed electrical harness and valve mounting screws. Installation of new valve was reverse process. Figuring out how to raise the front panel for access to the valve was most difficult. Found a YouTube video showing how; it was easy from there. Entire replacement took about 30 mins max.

If you take the back off the machine, it's a lot easier to detach the control bridge. Saved a lot of time and did not need to stretch your fingers

Siphon break kit keeps washing machine from continuing to siphon after rinse/cycle -- like emptying a pool with a hose. Fixed the problem of the tub never filling due to siphon draining out water as it's being put in.

DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.

Popped the cap , used a socket to unscrew the bolt (it was stripped so ended up having to cut off bolt) Took off old impellar and replaced, installed a new bolt, replaced Cap and it was fixed.