MVW7230HC2 Maytag Washer - Overview

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

- Shut off power to the washer
- Removed cap on top of agitator
- First, I tried using a ratchet set to remove the bolt that is inside the agitator at the baseplate. Tub would spin when I tried this method, so I used an air impact with long extensions. One press of the impact and the bolt loosened.
- Tied a pair of shoelaces together and stuffed them inside the seam around the agitator baseplate. I put the shoelaces half way around the baseplate. Get it in the seam then with two hands, each with an end of the shoelace, pull up on the baseplate. Success!!
- Installed the new agitator with base plate and then used the ratchet set to tighten the bolt. Didn’t want to take a chance on stripping the bolt inside the agitator with the air impact when tightening.

DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.