This is an OEM replacement ice and water filter for your refrigerator. In side-by-side refrigerators, it is found in the top right corner or the bottom left grille. In bottom-freezer refrigerators, th...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This compressor start relay is for refrigerators. The compressor start relay attaches to the compressor and helps start the compressor motor. Safely store any food that could deteriorate while the pow...
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light ...
This mounting screw is a genuine OEM replacement part for the door handle in your refrigerator. If you are having trouble shutting the refrigerator door, or opening it, replacing this screw can help s...
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
When energized, this part releases water from the supply line into the ice mold.
$158.32
In Stock
Questions And Answers for MSS26C6MFZ00
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Bill
April 6, 2022
My refrigerator has got a message of "cooling off"
For model number MSS26C6MFZ00
Hello Bill, Thank you for the question. This message will appear when the temperature inside the appliance is too high. We suggest checking the setting to make sure they are not set too high and make sure the door gaskets are sealing properly with no wear or damage. You can also test the Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat. The best way to do this is to remove the thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
My Maytag side by side is not making ice. Just removed the ice tray and the housing around it and noticed my ice tray has no ice in it. It would appear as though I’m not getting water to fill the tray and not sure where to go from here.
For model number MSS26C6MFZ00
Hi Steven, thank you for reaching out. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix the issue: Water Inlet Valve, part number PS11753250, Water Filter, part number PS11701542, Single Primary Water Inlet Valve, part number PS11750831, and Ice Maker, part number PS11738120. We hope this helps! If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Thanks again for your great question.
Hello Mary, we are glad you asked. The Freezer Light Bulb is PS12349398. We also have the Small Blue Bulbs for the fresh food section, PS16555179. We are pleased to have been able to help.
Why doesn’t my ice machine make ice? I have cleaned the bucket out completely, filter is set correctly and brand new, water flows freely, switch inside lights up, turned the off switch off for 24 hours then on again and 3 days later, still no ice. Wires inside aren’t frozen, no ice in the ice tray, ice machine works and makes the sound trying to shoot the ice out but there isn’t any to shoot. Anyone have any idea how to fix this issue?
Thank you,
Josh
For model number MSS26C6MFZ00
Hi Josh, thank you for getting in touch. Solenoids on the water valve need to be tested with a multimeter to be sure your ice maker water inlet valve is giving water. If it is fine, you will need to replace the icemaker, part number PS11738120, itself. We hope that helps!
My fridge doesn't cool down below 42 degrees I was told it might be the air flow control, the freezer compartment works fine
For model number MSS26C6MFZ00
Hi George, thank you for getting in touch. Yes, based on our research, the most likely cause of this issue is a faulty air damper, part number PS12347986, which may need to be replaced. We hope this sorts out your problem!
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the lead wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!