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Danny
February 4, 2020
How do you replace the water filter
For model number MSB27C2XAM00
Hello and thank you for writing.
Removing and replacing a water filter - upper right-hand corner location
Filters situated in the upper right-hand corner of the refrigerator compartment of Maytag-built side-by-side refrigerators are relatively simple to replace. Follow these steps:
These eight-inch long filters are housed in their own compartment. The base of the compartment can be released by pushing in on the release clip found at the end of the housing unit. Allow the base of the housing compartment to hang down while you remove and replace your filter.
Twist the spent filter to the left (counter-clockwise) and gently pull on it to remove it. There is automatic water shut off to keep leaks and spills to a minimum.
Remove the new filter from its packaging. Remove the plastic wrap, and peel off the aluminum topping. Insert the new filter into the housing unit. Twist the filter to the right (clockwise) until it clicks into place. Replace the base of the filter housing by clipping it back in place.
Condition the filter by dispensing several glasses of water through your refrigerator. This ensures that all fine carbon particles have been removed.
Check the filter and the inside of the refrigerator for leaks. If you find a leak, remove and install the filter again.
Finally, reset the 'change filter' indicator light, if your refrigerator has one, at the front of your refrigerator. The procedure for resetting the change filter indicator light can vary from the fridge to the fridge. Typically, the indicator light can be reset by holding down on the 'lock' button and the 'water' button simultaneously for three seconds. Sometimes, it is the 'lock' and the 'light' button you need to press down on simultaneously for three seconds in order to reset the filter indicator light.
Note: Replacing this type of filter is a quick process - there is no need to unplug your refrigerator when replacing it. Also, this filter should be replaced every six months.
We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
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Edward
March 3, 2020
My Maytag refrigerator is not getting cold.I changed the relay on the motor and the capacitor.
For model number MSB27C2XAM00
Hello and thank you for writing.
It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty evaporator motor itself PS11740362 you should check the part(s) for signs of damage or test with a multimeter, and replace the part(s) as needed. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
Hi Daniel,
Thank you for your question. The part number listed under your model number for the black user interface is PS11756172. The part number listed for the white user interface is PS11756171. If you need help placing an order for one of these parts, customer service is open 7 days a week and anyone will be happy to assist you. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
No water to ice maker. I replaced water inlet valve. It made 3 trays of ice and stopped making ice. No led light for bin full. Replaced send and receive boards. Made 1 tray of ice and no more ice. Other things to check?
For model number MSB27C2XAM00
Hi Malcolm, thank you for your inquiry. Since you have already replaced most of the parts that can cause this issue, we would suggest replacing the icemaker assembly, PS11751133. We hope this sorts out your problem!
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
