This dryer repair kit consists of five commonly replaced dryer parts: one multi-rib belt (part #661570V and measures 93 1/2 inches long), four drum support rollers, one idler assembly, nine tri-rings,...
$68.33
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This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. The part includes the d...
$28.93
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This thermostat may differ in appearance, but functions the same as the original part. This part controls the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum and prevents the dryer from overheating.
$60.87
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If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
$17.11
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Also known as Thermal Cut-Off kit. The thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating and the fuse is like a backup system - it's set to trip at a higher temperature than...
$67.94
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Sold individually. These shock absorbers keep the washer from vigorous shaking during its cycles. This shock absorber is for washers.
Shock absorber absorbs the vibrations and movements of the oute...
$72.91
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This is a replacement tub-to-pump hose for your washer. This hose runs from the bottom of the tub to the water pump, and is used to transport water. The hose can develop a hole, and when this happens ...
$43.62
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Questions And Answers for MLE22PDAYW0
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Courtney
January 5, 2023
error code f 74 and f 26
For model number MLE22PDAYW0
Hello Courtney, thank you for your question. Error Code F26: Problem with the Door Switch PS11753513. F74 timer/main controller/CCU has failed. The Dryer Electronic Control Board PS11753940 and the Washer Motor Control Board PS11754008. We look forward to hearing from you.
Hello Jim, thank you for the great question. This indicates the washer or dryer is inoperative. Diagnostic codes displayed on the upper portion of the display belong to the dryer section, and diagnostic codes displayed on the lower portion of the display apply to the washer section. Diagnostic codes displayed on both the upper and lower portions of the display apply to the control systems of both the washer and dryer. You need to fix these errors to clear the screen. We hope this information helps!
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Jim
April 4, 2023
Why does the machine keep showing out of order with no error codes. I reset by cycling power but it only lasts for a day.
For model number MLE22PDAYW0
Hi Jim, Thank you for writing. We suggest putting the appliance into Diagnostic mode. The appliance needs to be plugged in and in stand by mode with all indicators off. Choose any one button on the console except Power, Start, or Stop. Press/Hold 3 Seconds - Release 3 Seconds - Press/Hold 3 Seconds - Release 3 Seconds - Press/Hold 3 Seconds. If the diagnostic test mode has been successfully entered, all of the indicator lights will glow for five seconds with 88 on the time display. If it didn't work try #2 again. If there are any saved fault codes they will be displayed. If there are no save fault codes all indicator lights will turn off for a moment then back on with 88 displayed and the automatic diagnostic test mode will begin in five seconds. If you are unable to enter the diagnostic test mode, press the power button and verify that the button you were trying to use operates properly to program the washer's cycle function. There may be something wrong with that function button. Find another button on the control that appears to work and try to enter the diagnostic mode with that button. You may also want to verify that the user interface has a good connection to the washing machine control board at the P11 terminal. We hope this helps!
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First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils. Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts. So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading. I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart. Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.
Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.
The actual repair was quite simple and didn't take but 15-20 minutes.
I started to repair this and got busy and ended up calling a repair service -- that was the first time. They repaired it for over $200 and said the cause was bad venting. I fixed the vent before using the fixed dryer but it blew again. So I ordered these parts and replaced them myself for a lot of savings. However, the dryer still overheated. Through lots of testing I found the root cause the repairman missed: The heating element had gotten so hot that the assembly holding it warped, hitting the element and shorting it. So a new element is on order. I still needed the parts I ordered here but the overall repair ended up more complicated and expensive. I was disappointed a paid repair person left without further diagnosis. If he had unplugged the vent and checked the heat on the exhaust vent (as I ended up doing) it would have been obvious more than a new thermal fuse/thermistor was necessary. Instead I wasted over $200 on his visit. So my advice is if you're at all handy, repair this yourself. The dryer has a service manual inside the front toe board that walks you through most diagnostics and tests. However, it took a little more than that for me to discover the heating element problem. This was a very dangerous situation that could have easily led to a fire, yet not found by a trained technician!
