This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
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John
March 7, 2020
I am trying to determine why my oven is not lighting. I've recently replaced the igniter with no success. The igniter is not lighting, whereas the broiler igniter and gas flow to the broiler is fine.After further investigation, i've checked the gas safety valve with a multi-meter and i get a reading of 1.8 ohms. i've read that it needs to be between 0 and 5 ohms. i've also checked the temperature sensor and i get a reading of 1,089 ohms. an earlier response by partselect indicated that a reading between 900 and 1,200 ohms is desired. if the final source of the oven failure is the control board on the face of the oven, what resistance readings do i need and what terminals should i check? are there other causes for the oven burner failure. thank you in advance for your help.
For model number MGS5870ADB
Hi John, thank you for your question. Yes, if all of your other parts are reading in the correct ohm range then your issue is more than likely the control board itself. Unfortunately only a trained technician would know how to test parts like that exactly. So we do not have the readings for individual terminals. That is why testing all of the parts that can be tested first is always a great step in determining what the issue is. We hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Brad
November 9, 2022
Trying to figure out if the controller board is bad. Oven lights, comes to temperature in both bake and convect bake modes. After awhile the entire display shuts off and goes blank. After the oven cools down (not sure to what temp), the display turns back on with the clock flashing at the time the display had shut down.
For model number MGS5870ADB
Hello Brad, thank you for reaching out. It seems like the electronic control board is defective and needs to be replaced. The part number for the electronic control board is PS11742971. If you require assistance to place an order, please contact customer service. We hope that helps!
A couple of years ago, my oven would only heat sporadically and finally not at all. The failure was gradual. I discovered the problem was with the igniter. I replaced the igniter and it worked perfectly. A few weeks ago, without warning, the oven will again not heat. Since it is an easy replacement, i put a new igniter in, but that did not fix the problem. Which component would result in an instant failure? I don't think it is the gas valve, since the igniter is not lighting, the gas valve would not receive a signal anyway. Could it be the control board and if so, it appears that a replacement board is not available. Can you help?
For model number MGS5870ADB
Hi John,
Thank you for your question. If you have replaced the igniter and the oven is still not heating,the issue is likely with the oven sensor, sometimes called the oven thermostat, and you will need to check it with a multi-meter. When testing the sensor with a multi-meter, the sensor should be tested at room temperature and it should be unplugged from the oven. You will need to measure the resistance between the two prongs at the end of the sensor connector. Replace the oven sensor if the reading is less than 900 Ohms or more than 1200 Ohms. If this checks out fine, you will need to check the electronic control board, both oven elements and the wiring between these parts to see which once is causing the issue. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.
Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
Lift out sealed burner assembly rear of stove first while careully sliding to rear to disengage ignitor probes.Remove philips head screws from bottom sheet metal housing to expose bottom of burners Remove gas tube assembly screws and move tube away carefully.Unplug wires from ignitor.Remove screws for ignitor .Remove ignitor, I noticed that rust and dirt had built up around burner to pan connection.I used my oil filter wrench to turn slightly the burner to remove it from the pan to clean.Reassembled in reverse order.
