This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
This is a replacement screw and washer for your oven/range. It is a Phillips-head screw approximately half an inch long, and the washer is approximately 1 inch in diameter. The screw attaches the oven...
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Michael
December 8, 2019
The main controll panel for the oven that is mounted on the top back of this model is this servisable if so are the parts avaiable to me thanks mike
For model number MGR5751ADW
Hello Michael and thanks for writing.
That board PS2357660 if it is faulty needs to be replaced as a whole unit. So you need to check it for shorts and replace the board if needed. And yes, of course, you can purchase the parts from us. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.
Thanks for the reply : On our stove the very front of the touch panel is cracked on the plus touch pad can that be replaced ? Thanks mike
For model number MGR5751ADW
Hello Michael,
Thank you for your question. You would need to replace the electronic control that comes with the touch pad included only through the electronic control for your model under part PS2357660. Hope this helps!
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.
Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
Lift out sealed burner assembly rear of stove first while careully sliding to rear to disengage ignitor probes.Remove philips head screws from bottom sheet metal housing to expose bottom of burners Remove gas tube assembly screws and move tube away carefully.Unplug wires from ignitor.Remove screws for ignitor .Remove ignitor, I noticed that rust and dirt had built up around burner to pan connection.I used my oil filter wrench to turn slightly the burner to remove it from the pan to clean.Reassembled in reverse order.