MGC5430BDQ Maytag Cooktop - Overview

Diagrams for MGC5430BDQ

See every part. Know exactly what you need.

Enter a part description. DIY Heroes keep it simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Range Surface Burner Spark Igniter – Part Number: WP8523793
$43.47
In Stock
Range Surface Burner Spark Igniter
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #WP8523793
Struggling with a misbehaving range burner that wont light up? Hang tight, weve got just the solution: the Whirlpool Surface Burner Spark Igniter. This is an authentic, OEM part, designed specifically to revive the spark in your range burner. Heres the real deal about this simple yet crucial component: It is responsible for generating that initial spark that gets your burner going. And yes, its a dependable Whirlpool product, ensuring your range is back on track in no time. Dont worry about matching it up with your appliance. This trusty igniter pairs smoothly with certain models of Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, and Magic Chef ranges, ovens, and stoves. Remember, safety first! Please unplug your range and turn off your gas supply before the installation. We also recommend wearing work gloves for added protection. Breathe new life into your stovetop with the Whirlpool Surface Burner Spark Igniter - and get back to preparing your favorite meals in no time.
Heat Resistant Adhesive – Part Number: W10841140
$29.65
In Stock
Heat Resistant Adhesive
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #W10841140
This is a heat-resistant adhesive for your appliance. The heat resistance allows you to stick parts such as grate feet, gaskets, and felt seals in hot areas, such as a cooktop, without compromising the integrity of the adhesive. It is white in color, and the tube is approximately 7.5 inches long.
Spark Module - Oven – Part Number: 8215557
$144.52
In Stock
Spark Module - Oven
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #8215557
This part sends enough current to the igniter to create a spark to the bottom of the burner cap.
Range Burner Knob – Part Number: WP74011277
$35.15
Special Order
Range Burner Knob
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP74011277
Sold individually. Bisque in color.
Stand Mixer Screw – Part Number: WP4159193
$12.95
In Stock
Stand Mixer Screw
Part #WP4159193
This screw is sold individually.
Range Burner Head 12k – Part Number: WPW10406797
$69.25
In Stock
Range Burner Head 12k
Part #WPW10406797
This part distributes flame evenly to your cookware.
LP conversion kit – Part Number: WP7509P103-60
$99.55
Special Order
LP conversion kit
Part #WP7509P103-60
Range Grommet – Part Number: WP74007705
$12.70
In Stock
Range Grommet
Part #WP74007705
This part is the replacement grommet for your cooktop or range. It is made of black plastic and is approximately 1 ¼ inches in diameter. This part may also be known as the cooktop burner knob gasket, and it creates a seal between the burner knob and the control panel. The main reason to replace the gasket is if it no longer creates a seal, or if it is otherwise broken, damaged, or missing. This part is sold individually and is an authentic OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Range Burner Head 6k – Part Number: WPW10406243
$40.65
In Stock
Range Burner Head 6k
Part #WPW10406243
This is the Right Rear Burner Head.
Igniter Switch Assembly – Part Number: WP74007696
$164.64
In Stock
Igniter Switch Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP74007696
This assembly contains 4 ignition switches and the wire harness.
REGULATOR – Part Number: W11170853
$226.84
Special Order
REGULATOR
Part #W11170853
Range Frame Screw – Part Number: WP7101P126-60
$10.93
In Stock
Range Frame Screw
Part #WP7101P126-60
Sold Individually.

Manuals & Care Guides for MGC5430BDQ

Click to download

Common Symptoms of the MGC5430BDQ

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory! View More

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
top burners on stove won't ignite ,no clicking noise
48 of 73 people found this instruction helpful.
  • scott from centreville, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
remove small panel on right side of stove,then un clip moduke and put wires from old module to new one.
Exact fit nomproblems.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
spark igniter was weak and not lighting the flame.
39 of 53 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from Needham, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Open top oven door and remove the 2 front screws which hold the burners and controls to the frame. DO NOT lift the burners more than an inch or so to look inside. You WILL bend the gas lines in the back if you do. Pull out stove from the wall, shut off gas supply and disconnect hose if needed to have room to work. Remove top back panel an d remove the 3 wires connecting the top burner assembly and also remove the 2 gas lines. Now you will be able to remove the burner assembly safely. Flip it over and try to unscrew the screw holding the igniter. When you fail, drill it out and get a small metal screw to replace it. The metal is soft and the screw is hard, so drill carefully. The rest is easy, put in the new igniter and screw. and put it back together.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Ignitor on main burner would not create a spark
30 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Bloomington, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Having no manual nor finding any instructions online, I spent a while trying to figure out how to safely get to the ignitor mounting screw under the range top. I popped the snap clips on either side of the stove to loosen the top and pulled the top up a few inches to see why it was being difficult to raise. It turns out that the gas pipin g was solidly attached from the controls to the burners and I was slightly bending the tubes as the top was raised. The tubes have angles and curves to "accept" the bending pressure I was applying, so it looked like I was doing the right thing. In case I was not doing the right thing, however, I raised the top only enough to get access to the ignitor base and mounting screw. Then the fun began as the screw would not loosen. After several attempts using liquid wrench, tapping on it, etc., the screw head finally just broke off. Uh-ohhhh. Not to worry, however, as there was an empty mounting hole right next to the old one that appeared to be able to work. The mounting screw for the new ignitor was backordered, so I tried a couple dozen different screws I had in my toolkit and finally found one that would fit width-wise, but I had to nip off some of the length to get it to seat properly. The replacement ignitor also had a different width blade connector than the original so I had to grind away some of its width to reattach it to the lead wire. If I had a different sized blade receiver, I would have instead replaced the receiver on the end of the lead wire. It took about 90 minutes in all.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!