MED8100DW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions
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Rear tub seal failure
I removed the top cover and then the back cover, released the belt tensioner and removed the drive belt. Then slid the tub out of the unit and onto the back dack. Sanded the remnents of the old seal off. Wiped the tub lip with laquer thinner and applied the "fast" drying glue supplied with the kit. Installed the seal and re-assembled the unit...works fine
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Jerry from Everett, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
66 of 84 people
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Very Loud Squeaking Noise
1) Disconnected power cord from wall. 2) Disconnected vent hose from back of dryer. 3)Removed dryer rear panel. 4)Disengaged tension spring on idle wheel arm. 5) Removed worn idle wheel. 6)Installed new Idler wheel assembly. 7) Vacuumed dust from rear of dryer (optional, recommended). 8) Reinstalled rear cover, vent hose and power cord. Easy repair 15-30
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GREGORY from Wilsonville, OR
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
60 of 71 people
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Scratches in Surface
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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Michelle from Richardson, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
65 of 128 people
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worn out part
The repair was fairly easy. The most timely part of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to expose the repair.
Parts Used:
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John from Tucson, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
41 of 60 people
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TOb stopped turning after a week or so of high pitched "squeals" coming from inside the dryer.
I recommend you order the idler pulley as soon as you start to hear the unusual noise indicating metal against metal. Replace the idler pulley before it fails and possibly causes more damage to the drive system. Simply removed the power cord at the back of the dryer and then the multiple screws holding the back panel in place as well as the clip holding the exhaust vent in place. You may need to remove the top panel to access a few of these screws. A diagram of the belt routing is in the paperwork I found behind the front lower panel of the dryer. This too is easily removed with just a few screws.
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Robert from Princeton, WV
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
29 of 33 people
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Unit would shut down in the middle of cycle and flash E1 trouble code
Had to remove the back of unit to access the area of subject part by removeing 12 to 14 screws also the gas line had to be removed. Two screws held the part in place. Unit now runs normal.Saved alot on repair costs!!!!!
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Jim from Tucson, AZ
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
30 of 40 people
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craked blower motor
somthing fell down in the blower motor compartment and busted up the bloewr motor fan,and was making noise and out of balance.i changed the blower motor and runs like a charme
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joe from cheswick, PA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
63 of 142 people
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Idler Pulley broke
I disconnect the power, then the vent pipe. I removed the back panel of the dryer to access the pulley and removed the belt. Replaced the back and put everything back together.
Parts Used:
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Keith from Richmond, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
21 of 26 people
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Dryer turns off after 1-2 minutes
I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.
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Dixon from Santa Fe, NM
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
19 of 21 people
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idler pully sqwieling
once the back is off remove belt from tentioner and remove v clip. smooth shaft with wd-40 and scotch brite , then install new idler replace v clip
and your done !!!
and your done !!!
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Jerry Duty from Fort Walton Beach, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
19 of 24 people
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noisy drum
the job would have gone faster if the right parts had been sent in the first place. I would have never paid for two day shipping. In the repair, I removed the rear panel, clipped the plastic triangle holding the bearing, installed the new bearing and new clip.
Parts Used:
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Jeff from Mesa, AZ
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
20 of 27 people
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Dryer starts with loud squeak initially. Eventually there was a loud clank and dryer stopped.
Rather than remove the front panels, door, control panel and drum, I noticed 1/4" metal screws on the back panel. There were approximately 6 holding the back panel in place. I did have to remove the top panel as well before removing the back. Once removed I had complete access to the broken idler pulley assembly. I immediately saw the broken pulley. I installed the new one with very little effort. Reset the belt according to instructions from the video. Reassembled, plugged in, hit start and enjoyed the sweet sounds of success. All told it took me about 20 minutes from start to finish.
Parts Used:
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Victor from HOUSTON, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
16 of 17 people
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Dryer would not turn
My dryer starter squeaking in December 09 and the repairman told me that it would cost between $200-$500. I did not let him fix it as this machine is only 3 years old. When the part finally broke in April 10, I was ready to junk this and just buy a used dryer. My husband went on line and quickly figured out the part he would need to do the repairs. It cost under $20.00. Now my dryer is fixed and running and there are no squeaks. Thank you
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Kim K from Hurst, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
15 of 18 people
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Flashing E1 code for a bad thermistor
I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. Also, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.
Parts Used:
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John from Cedar Rapids, IA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
17 of 25 people
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Moisture sensors need replacement
Inside the dryer tub, remove the filter housing by removing two phillips head screws. Unplug the sensor wires, note when replacing wires, black wire goes on upper sensor.
Separate filter grill from housing. Using the pliers, compress the tabs on the sensor plugs and push it thru the grill. The small blade screwdriver may come in handy here to pry up on sensor to assist in pulling the plug end through the grill. Replace the sensors by hooking short end into grill and pushing the long end through the grill. When replacing the housing to the dryer, the most difficult thing is getting the screwdriver onto the recessed screws. Be sure to put the tab on top of the housing under the dryer frame when rotating the assembly into place.
Separate filter grill from housing. Using the pliers, compress the tabs on the sensor plugs and push it thru the grill. The small blade screwdriver may come in handy here to pry up on sensor to assist in pulling the plug end through the grill. Replace the sensors by hooking short end into grill and pushing the long end through the grill. When replacing the housing to the dryer, the most difficult thing is getting the screwdriver onto the recessed screws. Be sure to put the tab on top of the housing under the dryer frame when rotating the assembly into place.
Parts Used:
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Jack from JONESBORO, AR
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
14 of 17 people
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