This dryer repair kit consists of five commonly replaced dryer parts: one multi-rib belt (part #661570V and measures 93 1/2 inches long), four drum support rollers, one idler assembly, nine tri-rings,...
This Idler Pulley includes the tri-ring and gasket and everything included here is manufacturer-certified. This part maintains correct tension on the drive belt in order to spin the drum properly. If ...
When connected to electricity the dryer heating element glows red hot and generates heat. When air is blown over it, it heats the air which is used to dry the clothes. The heating element fits inside ...
This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. The part includes the d...
This thermostat may differ in appearance, but functions the same as the original part. This part controls the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum and prevents the dryer from overheating.
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
This is the moisture sensor for your dryer. It helps detect the amount of moisture in your clothes during the dryer cycle. If you notice your clothes are still wet after an automatic dryer cycle is do...
The idler pulley wheel is now sold with this arm. This idler pulley is for dryers.
Idler pulley maintains correct tension on the drive belt to spin the drum.
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Sharron
February 10, 2023
Dryer starts and stops within a few minutes, and yes, the filter is clewan
For model number MED3500FW1
Hello Sharron, Thank you for your inquiry. Researching the model number that you have provided, it sounds like the dryer is overheating (or the thermostat is thinking that it is) and the thermostat is shutting down the dryer to keep it from doing so. We would recommend checking the high limit thermostat, the thermal cut off, the cycling thermostat, and heating element. You can also check the thermal fuse as well, although usually there is no heat at all or the dryer will not shut if the fuse blows. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, we have videos available to assist you. Good luck with your repair.
To replace the belt on this Maytag dryer with the control on the front directly above the door rather than on the rear at the top of the dryer as shown in your video, do I still remove the front panel with the controls or remove the back panel.
For model number MED3500FW1
Hello Bruce, Thank you for the question. Yes, the front panel before the controls can be removed to access the Belt. We hope this helps!
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Remove the kick plate from the bottom of the dryer by sliding a putty knife along the top edge to release the plastic clamps, one on each side about 4" in from the edges. The kick plate folds out and down. You will see the heat shield on the right, held in by one hex head screw. Remove screw and heat shield. The element is positioned in an open-front housing and is fastened to the left side of the housing by two hex head screws, located on the "rail" of the element and right near the two wires. Remove the hex-head screws that hold the element in place and disconnected the two wires by pulling them out by hand or with needle nose pliers. The only difficulty here is the cramped working area...I recommend a stubby socket driver for these two screws. Most of this I had to do by feel because I could not see the screw heads. Once the screws are out and the wires have been disconnected, slide the old element straight out toward you. You may need to disconnect a small plastic hose located to the left front of the element, but this hose just pulls right off. Vacume the dust & lint build-up out of the whole area, wipe out the element housing and clean up the whole underside of the dryer prior to installing the new element. Installation is reverse of removal. It also might be a good opportunity to clean out your exhaust duct and the vent to the outside. (Never use the aluminum foil-accordian-type duct.) If the exterior dryer vent has any kind of screen over it, remove it and get rid of it. Screens collect lint, lint builds up and burns out elements.
The issue was the idler pulley. First I began opening up the front panel based on a youtube video but soon realized the model was slightly different and required a lot more items to remove. I saw the pulley in the back with nothing in the way so I put the front panel crap back on and removed the rear panel. There it was, very simple to remove and replace. I'm not looking forward to drum rollers though. Hopefully they're aren't as difficult as they appear.
I removed the top cover and then the back cover, released the belt tensioner and removed the drive belt. Then slid the tub out of the unit and onto the back dack. Sanded the remnents of the old seal off. Wiped the tub lip with laquer thinner and applied the "fast" drying glue supplied with the kit. Installed the seal and re-assembled the unit...works fine
