This part has two ports for water to enter. It is blue and is intended for use with many washing machines and comes with a multi-mount bracket and an outlet adaptor.
$125.52
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This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$26.51
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This washing machine drain pump is intended for use with automatic washers that have been manufactured since 1958. The pump itself is made of plastic, though it does come with a metallic belt pulley.
$255.89
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This damper pad kit is used for base support. It comes with three six inch damper pads, two little tubes of lubricant. NOTE: This part will need adhesive to stick it in place.
$57.69
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This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
$11.68
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This is a heat-resistant adhesive for your appliance. The heat resistance allows you to stick parts such as grate feet, gaskets, and felt seals in hot areas, such as a cooktop, without compromising th...
$30.41
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This foot pad is just over an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of rubber and is gray in color. This pad is intended for use with washers and some dryers.
$19.48
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I started by unplugging the appliance and then shut off the hot and cold water faucets then I disconnected and drained the hoses. Next, I removed the two screws that held the valve assembly in place. I then pulled the assembly out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wire plugs. The last step was to loosen the hose clamp on the outlet hose and pull off the outlet hose. I reversed the steps to install the new assembly and the total repair took about 10 minutes.
I removed the 2 phillips screws on the bottom of the front panel. Then checked around to find the belts were actually below the floor panel. I pulled the washing machine away from the wall and tilted it bacwards and found the pump belt was off the pully and the drive belt was badly damaged. I replaced the 2 belts which took no tools and about 3 minutes to accomplish then resecured the front panel, pushed back in place and leveled. Complete repair from diagnosis to back in operation took less than 15 minutes.
Removed two screws at bottom of front panel and then removed front panel. Then removed two self-tapping bolts (one on each side) holding top panel in place and swung the panel up, out of the way, to expose top of tub and water injection components. Cut off one pinch clamp and loosened screw clamp holding two injector hoses to the injector sleeve. Removed these water injector hoses from injector sleeve assembly which is mounted on top of left side panel upper flange. Replaced deteriorated rubber injector valve, nozzle and the sleeve for the injector (plastic housing containing the injector valve and nozzle). Also replaced deteriorated injector tube seal where injector tube elbow mounts to top of tub assembly. Reinstalled injector hoses with a replacement screw clamp to replace the one cut off. tightened the new clamp and the other, original, screw clamp and checked for leaks. This solved the leakage problem. Secured top panel and re-installed front panel. Hardest part of the task was determining where the leak emanated from but once found and parts ordered, it was a relative snap to fix.
