These agitator directional cogs are commonly referred to as dog ears. They come four to a package and are usually used with direct drive washing machines.
This coupling kit is located between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with no belt. This is the newer version and is made with new metal sleeves for added strength.
This Idler Pulley includes the tri-ring and gasket and everything included here is manufacturer-certified. This part maintains correct tension on the drive belt in order to spin the drum properly. If ...
The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could c...
This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. The part includes the d...
A worn clutch can cause a slower spin speed which will leave your clothes wet after a cycle. This clutch assembly comes with brake cam driver, blue spring for large capacity washers and black spring f...
This thermal cut-off kit for a dryer includes one high limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse (309 degrees). This kit also includes flat heaters with jumper wires.
This dryer drum belt from Whirlpool/Kenmore has five ridges. It is used for many of Whirlpool's brands of clothes dryers. This flat belt is 1/4 of an inch wide.
The valve body of this part could be blue or green in color. There are two ports for water to enter, and this valve is compatible with a half inch ID hose. It has two 3/4-11x1/2 NHT hose threads.
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
$17.11
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M
February 11, 2020
Washer won't drain. Lid switch is good. Nothing hung in water pump. Hoses appear clear. What is likely the problem? Thank you!
For model number LTE6234DQ1
Hello,
Thank you for your question. If your washer is not draining and you have already checked the lid switch and the pump, there are some other parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the belt and the electronic control board. If the belt becomes stretched or worn it may not drive the pump efficiently. Check the belt for signs of glazing or wear and verify that the tension is correct for that model. Ensure that the motor and pump pulleys are clean and not worn. Replace belts with the exact manufacturer’s specifications. On models that use an electronic control, the main electronic control board will supply power to the drain pump motor. If the drain pump on your model does not receive power, then the control board may be at fault. Check the wiring diagram to ensure that the wiring harness has continuity before replacing the control board. Continuity can be checked with a multi-meter after removing power from the appliance. Live voltage checks should only be performed by a qualified person. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy. First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pump. The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed. One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary. Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
First pry off the cap of the agitator. Then using a socket remove the bolt that holds the plastic cup in place. Remove this cup by prying it loose from the two tabs that hold it in place. Once this cup is removed you can get to the broken cogs. Slip the new cogs into the underside of the cup, and slide the cup back down in the agitator housing using the slots on the side for a guide. (You may want to remove the entire agitator and assemble everything upside down, then flip it all back over to mount, so the cogs don't fall out). Tighten the bolt, snap the cap back in place on top of the agitator and your'e done. Easy repair.
First tried heating element and thermal fuse with no luck. Ordered thermal cutoff and fixed problem. Had I used an ohm meter first I would have determined problem before having ordered heating element and fuse, as both had resistance. I wast just lazy and ordered the took the most common failed components first before taking dryer back off.