This kit comes with hub assembly, agitator seal and spanner nut. If your washer leaks once full (with or without clothes in it) or leaks during agitation, then you should replace the seal.
This washing machine drain pump is intended for use with automatic washers that have been manufactured since 1958. The pump itself is made of plastic, though it does come with a metallic belt pulley.
$255.89
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This damper pad kit is used for base support. It comes with three six inch damper pads, two little tubes of lubricant. NOTE: This part will need adhesive to stick it in place.
$57.69
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This black lid switch assembly comes complete with a bracket, two switches, and a fuse. An open fuse might indicate that the lid switch is bad. The point of the lid switch is for the tub to stop spin...
$54.09
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This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
$11.68
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This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$26.51
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This is a heat-resistant adhesive for your appliance. The heat resistance allows you to stick parts such as grate feet, gaskets, and felt seals in hot areas, such as a cooktop, without compromising th...
$30.41
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This foot pad is just over an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of rubber and is gray in color. This pad is intended for use with washers and some dryers.
$19.48
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My washer is 5 years old and water began to leak on the floor. I took off the front panel and filled the tub. Water did not leak immediately, but after the tub filled with about 3-4 inches of water, the water began to leak from a rubber washer between the fixed tub and the drive shaft. I looked online for exploded diagrams of Maytag washers, when I came across your site. By looking at your diagrams, I determined what parts I needed and ordered them. The parts arrived in 2 days, and I installed them. There were no leaks and it cost me under $70 (a repairman would have cost at least $250). The only thing I would recommend to those in similar situations, is to purchase a spanner wrench (your site does not sell, but others do). The stem seal and hub assembly is reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen) and is difficult to remove due to tight quarters in the tub.
* Remove front Panel * Remeove two screws that allow the top to hing up. * Loosen set screw on agitator (1/4" socket) * Remove Agitator *Loosen spanner nut from mounting seal with hammer and punch remember to loosen, turn clockwise * Remove Inner Tub * Losen Mounting stem with Hammer and Punch- Remember to loosen, turn clockwise * Remove Boot seal with hands * Remove bolts from the three brackets that attach to the outer tub * Remove Outer Tub hoses * Remove outer Tub. CAREFUL, I cut my hands on sheet metal when outer tub broke free and came up * Knock Outer tub bearing out with large block of wood * Cut bearing sleeve off of the transmission with a drimmel tool and cutting wheel. It was siezed on and would not turn off. Also, first tried to chisel , but was too difficult * Cleaned area where bearing sleeve came off with fine sandpaper * Put small amount of non-permanent thread lock on transmission (bearing area) before installing the new bearing sleeve because the sleeve is not pressed on and I did not want it to turn freely * I did not but new bolts for the outer tub 3 brackets, but noticed that they needed to be sealed. So I bought some rubber washers at hardware store * I also used some stuff called CLR to clean some rust off of the outside of the INNER tank * I replaced the O-ring on the top of the agitator shaft Also, on the agitator shaft: To really do it right, I probably should have changed the agitator shaft because the old seal wore grooves into the shaft. I took my chances and cleaned it up with some fine metal sandpaper. I could not get the worn grooves completely smooth, but did not want to take off more material as I thought it may cause a leak. We'll see * I just used a hammer and punch to retighten the mounting stem and Spanner nut. REMEMBER COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO TIGHTEN * This was not too bad if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. I could have got a new washer, but quite frankly, I get more satisfaction from seeing the old one keep working * One last thing...and this is mostly for the younger guys cause the older guys already know it. CLEAN EVERYTHING on the washer...make it look like NEW and tell your wife how much you saved. Make sure you have the parts and tools to do the job within a timeframe that you do not have to go to the laundry mat and do not leave a big mess. This advice will definately pay off. GOOD LUCK
I determined that the spin bearing was bad and decided to replace the brake too. Placed the machine on its side and then removed the rubber cap, v-belt, screw, drive lug and pulley. Then used a chain-vise grip to turn the brake off with the aid of a 3 foot long pipe extender for leverage. Blocked up the tub to align the transmission and installed the new spin bearing, brake, pulley and drive lug. Adjusted the drive lug position to contact the ccw motion of the pulley at the point when I could just feel the brake pressure. Installed the screw and rubber cap. Replaced the drive belts. Tested and all works. Halleluah!
