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Randall
February 25, 2020
If the filter needs replaced, does it shut off the ice maker from making ice? If not what would cause the ice maker to stop making ice?
For model number KSF26C4XYY03
Hello Randall, Thank you for the question. If the filter needs to be replaced, it may not allow water through to the ice maker to make ice. We hope this helps.
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Phil
June 16, 2023
The refrigerator door won't stay level/square and won't close by itself. It has sunk down about 3/8". I adjusted the door a few months ago but it is out of true again. And there is a pile of shaving on the floor by the hinge. Is the screw stripped or is it a problem with the door cam or something else?
For model number KSF26C4XYY03
Hi Phil, thank you for reaching out. Based on our understanding of the issue, the issue is probably with the door cam. We recommend replacing the door cam, part number PS11751304. It helps with the closing of the door and helps keep them in position. We hope this helps!
Hi Dianne, Thank you for reaching out. The Glass Freezer Shelf is listed as PartSelect Number PS11752775. All current prices and availability is shown on the site. Good luck with the repair!
Can you send me the dimensions of this model - Height, width, depth - thank you!
For model number KSF26C4XYY03
Hello Barbara, thank you for contacting us. The dimensions for your model are: the height is 69.25", the width is 35.43", and the depth is 34.125". We hope this information helps!
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Kash
May 10, 2024
My fridge freezes food but the setting is on +4 what could the problem be
For model number KSF26C4XYY03
Hello Kash, thank you for your inquiry. We have found that the issue is most probably with the damper control assembly, part number PS11723079. It channels and controls the cold airflow from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment. You may need to replace it to solve the problem. Glad to be of help!
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.