KGRS205TSS4 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.

Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.

Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.

I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.

Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.

Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.

Good luck.

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

I removed the oven door, unscrewed a couple of screws, replaced the ignitor, put screws back in, done! Sometimes it would take my oven up to an hour to heat up and sometimes it just wouldn't heat up, just fill the house with a gas smell. Now, it heats up in about 3 minutes!! We were considering buying a new oven, we will just keep this one. $40.00 beats $700.00

First I pulled out the oven from the cabinet. Disconected the power, I removed the cover from the back, disconected the wires from the igniter. Removed the igniter from inside the oven. Reversed the process to install the igniter. Turned on the oven, it worked. Sat down and had a beer.

This is fairly easy for anyone to do. First I opened up the front (silver part) of the oven door by removing the screws at the top and the bottom. Then I kept on removing the various layers of glass... the 2 outside ones are removed by removing their respective screws and then you get to the inner-most. These 2 inner ones are in a frame that holds them together. I removed the large silver frame that holds the insulation and the 2-glass-frame in it. Just remove the screws and then tilt the insulation frame out a bit to remove the glass frame. You can tilt the entire insulation holder out but the insulation is soft and it starts to fall off. Just tilting it enough worked for me. Then I opened up the glass frame from one end, removed the left-over broken piece of the old glass pane and installed the new one in. Then reassemble. The entire process is very easy - but you will need another person for a few minutes when you remove /reinstall the glass frame inside the insulation holder. You would just need a little help holding everything... nothing technical. I would rate the repair technicality at 4 or 5/10. It could even be a 3 if there were less steps involved. Good luck! By the way, Amana/Maytag wanted $70 or so for the glass and then the repair fee. I got the part here for about $50.

1st I opened door to stove and removed the wire racks. Then removed lower panel to get to igniter. Then I had to slide stove away from wall. Remove panel on back for accesss to wires. The new part had a plastic connector and the original just used wire nuts for the connection. So I cut off connector and stripped 1/2 inch of the end. Removed wire nuts from old igniter. Back into the oven removed 2 screws pulled out old igniter. Installed new igniter with 2 screws stuck wires through small hole to rear. Back around to back of stove. Connected wires with wire nuts.(I did not see any differnce in wires and dont think it matters) put everything back together and fires that baby up. I am gonna say 15-30 min job

Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

First I removed the oven grates and then the metal plate that covers the burner and igniter.Then I removed the two screws that hold in the igniter,be careful because the threads on the sheet metal screw strip off easily due to the heat. Then I slid out the storage drawer on the bottom of the stove.Next I removed two screws that hold on a cover in front of the gas valve where the igniter is plugged in.I unplugged the old igniter, removed it then replaced it with the new one.I then reassembled everything in the reverse order.I did have to use a nut and bolt to replace the damaged sheet metal screw.

removed oven door, removed screws from bottom and sided, door is in layers, removed door layers like taking apart a sanwhich layer by layer, once i got to the inner layer i just had to bend out the little tab on the frame,remove the broken pane and place in the new one, bend the tab back and then put the door back together layer by layer, it was very easy and saved me money, and frustration in dealing with a repair man from a well known company who tried to tell me I needed to replace the whole door as the glass was factory sealed in the door, WELL! this girl's hair may be blonde but not that blonde, I received the glass the very next day, and it took me 40 minutes tops to replace the glass, EASY! KC

First I removed the oven door for easier access then, removed the oven grates and bottom pan. Then there is a wing nut that holds the heat deflector in place over the manifold thats needs to be removed. Now you can see the igniter, remove the 2 small hex head screws and disconnect electrical connection.
Simply reverse the sequence to reinstall.
This may sound like alot to do but it only took 15 minutes to complete and I'm not an appliance repair person. Anyone who is somewhat of a handyman can accomplish this job.

Turned gas and electricity off first. Pulled out the bottom pan so I could access the igniter. Removed two screws holding the igniter next to the burner tube, unplugged the igniter from the back of the stove and then pulled the plug threw into the oven. Mounted new igniter and then pulled the plug threw and plugged it back in. Reinstalled bottom pan and I was done in 15 - 20 minutes. VERY EASY TO DO...

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

Unplug oven. Remove oven door. Two latches on hinges must be rotated towards the door to release and then remove. Remove two thumb screws that hold drip pan in place and remove from oven. The ignitor is then exposed. Remove the two screws that hold the ignitor onto the burner asymbley. Pull wires/connection plug through hole in back of oven. I used needle nose pliers to guide electrical plug through hole. Disconnect old ignitor and plug in new. Simply pull apart. There is a guide key that will ensure you install plug correctly. Reasymble in reverse order. Hardest part for me was getting the door back one.

Step1: Remove oven door. Open oven door about 3-4 inches and pull up with 2 hands.

Step2: Turn oven light ON so you can see.

Step3: Remove bottom tray by pulling on the 2 rear clips and lift tray up and out of the oven.

Step4: Using a nut driver remove the 2 nuts holding the ignitor in place. If nuts are rusted from heat spray a tiny bit of WD-40 on them and totally wipe off any excess when finished removing the nuts.

Step5:Pull wire from old ignitor through the insulation and unplug it from its connection.

Step6: Plug in new ignitor and push it back through the insulation and fasten it back in position with the 2 nuts.

Step7: Re-install bottom tray and door and CONGRATULATIONS cause you just saved yourself about $150! by DIY And you never again will be eating semi-raw chicken or better yet, take the money you just saved and treat yourself and your family to a sushi dinner.

I would like to thank Partselect.com for their quick delivery and very reasonable price on the Ignitor I purchased.

Regards.