This small but important switch helps keep your microwave safe by making sure it won’t run unless the door is properly closed. It tells the microwave’s control system whether the door is open or shut, helping prevent accidents and ensuring everything works as it should. If your microwave isn’t starting or heating, this part might be the f...Read moreix you need. Installing it usually involves opening the microwave’s outer panel and replacing the switch near the door latch—just be sure to unplug the unit first and follow safety steps.
This roller is located underneath the glass turntable. With the help of the motor, this roller helps to rotate the glass tray. This part takes the place of the coupling.
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John - For model number KBMS1454SSS1
December 19, 2022
The fuse blew I replaced the fuse then it turned on it worked, clock and lights but when I turned it on the microwave to cook the fuse blew again.
Is it the High Voltage capacitor? Bad Diode
Hello John, thank you for contacting us. The most probable cause of the issue is a bad HV capacitor, part number PS11731152. If the high-voltage capacitor becomes defective, it will cause a fuse to blow when you try to start the microwave. Customer service is available 7 days a week if you require assistance placing an order. Thanks again for reaching out!
It work and went to put food in for another 25 second and it is dead
Hi Mary, thank you for contacting us. We would suggest checking the line fuse, part number PS11742452. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this sorts out your problem!
Microwave starts and after few seconds trips the circuit breaker.
Hi Michael, thank you for getting in touch. We would suggest checking the door switches. Both the door switches for your model are part number W10211972. You may need to replace the faulty one to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
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Patricia - For model number KBMS1454SSS1
November 16, 2021
Replacement glass tray
Hi Patricia,
Thank you for your question. The part number listed under your model number for the glass tray is PS12728515. If you would like to place an order for it, you may order it either online or by calling our customer service line and anyone will be happy to assist you. We hope this helps! If you have any questions, please let us know.
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My microwave began suddenly making a loud humming noise while cooking food.
131 of 258 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Lindsay from Nampa, ID
A Bit Difficult
1- 2 hours
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My microwave began suddenly making a loud harsh humming noise while cooking food. I did not let it go on long enough to know if it cooked the food or not. I did some Internet research and learned that it was likely the Magnetron. The test for this was to run the microwave for at least a minute on the lowest power setting and see if the no
... Read moreise cycled on and off. It did, so I (actually, my wife) ordered the part from partselect.com using the model number. I was successful in replacing the part, and we are back to microwave popcorn and quick defrost for a price that was less than a service call, however, it was time consuming, required a large work area, and access to 5 out of 6 sides of the unit. So proceed at your own discretion
Caution:
The first thing in every set of repair instructions was to discharge (short-circuit) the capacitor, as it may store large (as in lethal) amounts of electricity even when it is not connected to a power source. I had never done this, but found these instructions:
“Discharging your microwave's capacitor is absolutely essential in preventing injury to your microwave, your tools, and yourself. A capacitor stores a large amount of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged, and it must be discharged before beginning any repair. A capacitor is discharged by creating a short circuit between each of the two capacitor terminals, and between each terminal and the chassis. The chassis is the metal mounting (bare metal surface) of the capacitor. Read these directions thoroughly before you proceed. With your microwave unit unplugged, touch the blade of a well insulated screwdriver to one terminal. Gently slide the screwdriver forward until it reaches the other terminal, holding it there for a few seconds. Be aware that this often results in a loud and startling 'POP'. Repeat this procedure in order to create a short circuit between each capacitor terminal and the chassis (bare metal mounting plate surface). This same method can be applied to a capacitor having three, and not two, terminals.” I had not run my microwave in over a week, and then while my part was shipping, left my microwave 'unplugged' for more than two days, and my capacitor apparently discharged itself, although I did go through the above procedure carefully and completely - just in case. Step-By-Step: 1. You must remove your microwave from the cabinets - it is impossible to repair otherwise. This is best accomplished with 2 strong people - my wife and I made it work, but wished for another guy. a. While supporting the microwave, remove the two screws coming down through the cabinet above. b. Lift the rear of the microwave as much as possible, then tilt the front down - there is a clip high on the left side, as well as the hinge/clips on the bottom. c. If you do not lift it off the wall all at once, you may have to lift the rear even farther to remove it from the hinge/clips on the bottom. Important Note: Always beware of the microwave door, if it is bent or broken and cannot retain a seal, the microwave not function as a safety feature to keep from releasing microwaves. 2. Remove the vent cover on the top/front of the microwave - be careful, it's plastic. 3. Remove the vent cover and light panel on the bottom of the microwave - this is several screws and some simple wire clips. 4. Remove the "shell" (top and sides) of the microwave - this is several more screws on the back. Make sure to remove the plate that is holding the cord in place on the top. 5. Remove the interface panel by the screws on the top (which had been hidden by the vent cover) - the wires can remain attached, just slide it aside. 6. Remove the metal cover on the right side at the rear; this will expose the Magnetron and the Capacitor. Remember to immediately test and discharge the capacitor!
7. After you discharge the capacitor, remove the other cover plate and the support bracket - in case you haven't noticed, this is a time and space consuming operation.
8. You
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Microwave glass turntable when pop
35 of 42 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Liza from Monterey, CA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
After popping the last few kernals of popcorn, we hear a different kind of pop sound come from our microwave oven. When we looking inside, we found that the glass turntable had broken unevenly in half. Although we didn't understand why it had happned, we did know we'd be without the use of the microwave without a new one. After less th
... Read morean 10 minutes surfing online, I had found the correct part on PartSelect.com and had arranged to have it shipped to me by speedy delivery. Once it arrived, I just popped the new turntable into the microwave and used the box to dispose of the broken one. It could not have been easier and it saved me the cost of a service call and likely further delay.
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The display kept asking me to close the door, even though the door was closed. The interior light stayed on.
16 of 21 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
E G from SILVERDALE, WA
A Bit Difficult
30 - 60 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers
I used a Google search to show how to access the area behind the front panel. There was a folded paper copy with a schematic and wiring diagram in that space.Then I used a multi-meter to determine which of the THREE micro-switches was causing the problem. I called your help line and ordered a replacement switch. The switch was delayed
... Read morein transit so your agent credited me with the cost of shipping.
When the part arrived, it had three terminals instead of two as shown in the on-line picture but that did not cause any difficulty in using it. It took about 20 minutes to remove and replace the old switch.
All seems to be working well now.
Finding which of the THREE switches was the problem was the most difficult part of the repair. All three "clicked" but the defective one did not click as easily. It needed to be depressed more than the door latch can would provide. Old age?