Models > JVM1740DM1WW

JVM1740DM1WW General Electric Microwave - Overview

Sections of the JVM1740DM1WW

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Manuals & Care Guides for JVM1740DM1WW

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Light Bulb - 40W 130V – Part Number: WB36X10003
Light Bulb - 40W 130V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS247209
Manufacturer #: WB36X10003
This light bulb is a 40 watt, 130-volt clear appliance light bulb for your microwave. It is sold individually.
$28.06
  Special Order
Light Socket - 250V 75W – Part Number: WB08X10016
Light Socket - 250V 75W
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(2)
PartSelect #: PS230544
Manufacturer #: WB08X10016
Light bulb not included.
$29.70
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Cooking Tray – Part Number: WB39X10003
Cooking Tray
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS248248
Manufacturer #: WB39X10003
This part actually measures 12.5" in diameter and may be smaller than the original tray. This tray is rotated when the microwave is turned on.
$146.99
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Turntable Coupler – Part Number: WB06X10420
Turntable Coupler
PartSelect #: PS651211
Manufacturer #: WB06X10420
This turntable motor coupler connects the turntable motor to the turntable tray to activate the tray. If your tray does not consistently turn or does not turn at all, replace this part. This part meas...
  No Longer Available
Secondary Door Switch – Part Number: WB24X829
Secondary Door Switch
★★★★★
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(1)
PartSelect #: PS237421
Manufacturer #: WB24X829
  No Longer Available
Flat Cab Mounting Bolt – Part Number: WB01X10180
Flat Cab Mounting Bolt
PartSelect #: PS651196
Manufacturer #: WB01X10180
This part is the replacement flat cab mounting bolt for your microwave. The bolt is approximately 4 inches long. It is designed to hold the microwave in place in your cabinet. The main reason to repla...
$13.88
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Charcoal Filter – Part Number: WB2X9883
Charcoal Filter
PartSelect #: PS243779
Manufacturer #: WB2X9883
This vent hood filter collects grease particles in the air from cooking. Sold individually.
  No Longer Available
Grease Filter – Part Number: WB06X10596
Grease Filter
PartSelect #: PS952418
Manufacturer #: WB06X10596
This metallic vent hood filter collects grease particles in the air from cooking. Sold individually.
$81.60
  Special Order
Glass Light Lens – Part Number: WB36X10071
Glass Light Lens
PartSelect #: PS247275
Manufacturer #: WB36X10071
$23.26
  Special Order
Monitor Door Switch – Part Number: WB24X830
Monitor Door Switch
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(1)
PartSelect #: PS237422
Manufacturer #: WB24X830
$47.22
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Hood Damper Assembly – Part Number: WB06X10436
Hood Damper Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS651224
Manufacturer #: WB06X10436
  No Longer Available
Turntable Roller Guide – Part Number: WB06X10139
Turntable Roller Guide
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS227854
Manufacturer #: WB06X10139
This roller guide sits underneath the glass turntable tray.
$55.69
  Special Order

Questions And Answers for JVM1740DM1WW

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Robin
November 16, 2021
When door is open fan turns on and won't shut off until i close the door
For model number JVM1740DM1WW
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Hello Robin, thank you for your question. You can test your door switches with a multimeter. First, unplug your microwave. Some door switches have only two metal prongs extending from the body, while others have three. Those with three terminals will have a common (COM) terminal, a normally closed (N.C.) terminal, and a normally open (N.O.) terminal. Those switches with only two terminals will have either a common terminal and a normally open terminal, or a common terminal and a normally closed terminal. We are providing directions for testing a door switch with three terminals. If you are dealing with a door switch that has only two terminals, ignore the part of this test that does not apply to you. Using caution, remove all wiring harness leads from the switch's terminals. Use your ohmmeter to test your switch for continuity. Begin by setting your ohmmeter to measure resistance at a scale of Rx1. If you are using an analog meter, touch the metal tips of the test leads together and zero your ohmmeter by adjusting the thumbwheel in the front of the meter until the needle reads '0' on the scale. Touch one meter lead to the COM terminal and the other lead to the N.O. terminal. Do not push in on the actuator. Your meter should give a reading of infinity, meaning the circuit is open, and there is no continuity. Without moving the meter's leads, press down on the actuator until you hear a 'click'. With the 'click' of the actuator, the meter should produce a resistance reading of zero ohms. This means the circuit is closed and continuity is present. (Switches with only two terminals do not 'click' when actuated) Keep the meter lead that is touching the COM terminal in place, but move the other meter lead from the N.O. terminal to the N.C. terminal. You should receive a reading of infinity when you push in on the switch's actuator. When the actuator is released, you should receive a resistance reading of zero ohms. Now, set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale and touch one meter lead to the N.O. terminal and the other meter lead to the N.C. terminal. The resistance reading between these two leads should be infinite. Finally, take a resistance reading from both the N.C. terminal and the N.O. terminal to any metal mounting hardware that is a part of the switch assembly. You should receive a normal reading of infinity. Any readings that differ from the ones presented here are indicative of a defective door switch that will need to be replaced. Secondary Door Switch part number PS237421 and Monitor Door Switch part number PS237422. We hope this helps.

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Ned
December 26, 2023
Is this model vented or unvented
For model number JVM1740DM1WW
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Hello Ned, thank you for your inquiry. According to our research, the model number you mentioned has a convertible venting type. Glad to be of assistance!

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Grant
August 11, 2023
Microwave turns On by it self
For model number JVM1740DM1WW
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Hello Grant, thank you for asking. Based on the description you have provided, we would recommend checking the door switch, part number PS237421, to fix the issue. We hope this helps!

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Common Symptoms of the JVM1740DM1WW

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Tray won’t turn
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Won’t turn on
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Doesn’t shut off
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No heat
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Noisy
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Touchpad does not respond
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
A Cooking Tray developing a growing crack
The unbelievable happened. Our glass carousel cooking tray developed a crack. Each day the crack got longer. I ordered a new one on Tuesday and it arrived the next morning just before the cracked one completely cracked. I have never experienced such fast service. I highly recommend PartSelect and their helpful service.
Parts Used:
Cooking Tray
  • Ruth from New Bern, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
474 of 479 people found this instruction helpful.
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plate broke
replaced the plate
Parts Used:
Cooking Tray
  • craig from lindenhurst, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
462 of 553 people found this instruction helpful.
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light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
Parts Used:
Secondary Door Switch
  • Marla from Arlington, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
311 of 371 people found this instruction helpful.
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