This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
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This hinge can be used for either the left or the right side of the oven door. Sold individually.
$124.76
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Questions And Answers for JGW8130DDW
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Ken
January 22, 2020
Installed new controller wp74009559 powers up but controls are not functioning
For model number JGW8130DDW
Hello Ken, thank you for the question. If the new Board did not fix the issue, you may need the Control Panel. I looked up the part and it is listed as No Longer Available/Discontinued sorry. There are no part substitutions listed. Our suggestion here would be to call the manufacturer and see if they can provide you with a substitution for these part numbers. We hope this helps.
My lower oven gas element will not light, ignitor is on. Broil (upper element) works just fine. Installed a new control board as this was recommended by a local tech who could not get the control board. There were no error codes displayed on the numeric oven control.No change, lower gas element still does not light.
what do you think?
For model number JGW8130DDW
Hello Thom, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: the oven igniter, and the temperature sensor. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, we have videos available to assist you. Hope this helps.
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.
Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
I removed the oven door, unscrewed a couple of screws, replaced the ignitor, put screws back in, done! Sometimes it would take my oven up to an hour to heat up and sometimes it just wouldn't heat up, just fill the house with a gas smell. Now, it heats up in about 3 minutes!! We were considering buying a new oven, we will just keep this one. $40.00 beats $700.00