JGC8536BDW11 Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

As others reported, there are 2 torx screws that need to be removed so that the burner element can be removed. One came out with a little effort, the other one did not as it was corroded. After breaking a torx bit, a second torx bit succeeded in breaking off the screw head. This then required a drill to drill out the broken shaft and then rethreading the screw hole. On to the ignitor replacement. The tiny screw holding the ignitor was corroded and would not come out. It too had to be drllled out and rethreaded. It was a 1/3" #4 screw with fine threads. Had to get it an appliance repair store as the local hardware places don't carry fine threaded screws. Finally got it all put back together after a week. My advice before ordering an ignitor is make sure you can take the current burner off the cooktop first to do the repair in the first place. BTW, the ignitor I ordered came quickly and was the correct part!

Firts I removed the 2 screws that held the burber in place. Then I lifted the burner up & disconnected the wire that connected to the ignitor. Then I removed the one screw that held the ignitor to the burner. I then reversed these steps, replacing the cracked ignitor with the new one, replaced the screw holding it to the burner, then reconnected wire, returned the burner to the stove and replaced the two screws that held it. All Done!

- Removed the cover.
- Removed te two Torx screws.
- Pulled the burner a couple of inches to be able to disconnect the wire.
- Spent a lot of time removing the small Philips screw holding the ignitor. Ended up breaking the ignitor with pliers to be able to put WD40 under the screw's head.
- Treated all screws with a high temperature copper paste to prevent oxidation.
Installed the new ignitor with the new screw.
- Reconnected the wire.
- Installed the two Torx screws.
- Voila, it works.

Unscrewed burner head and replaced with new burnerhead and electrode. Just like new. Parts cost 128.00 including shipping. Very simple repair. Saved 200.00 in labor. Parts came within 36 hours. Super Fast.

Removed grate and burner cover (held on by gravity - no tools needed) then removed the two screws holding down the burner itself. These screws are Torx screws so you will need a Torx bit set (looks like a phillips head screw driver but is star shaped). Once these screws are out, the burner lifts off to reveal two phillips head screws holding the ignitor in place. Remove these two screws, un-plug the ignitor, plug in the new ignitor and replace the two screws holding the ignitor in place. Be sure to have the ignitor centered. The first time I put the new ignitor in place, it was touching the frame of the stove, so it failed to spark since it was grounded. Replace the burner and two torx screws and replace the burner cover and grate. Done and done.

The knobs that came with our cook top were coated with a plastic to make them look like shiny metal. When we turned a flame on high with a big fry pan on top, the heat shot out the sides and started to melt one of the original knobs and the coating bubbled. We tried getting some generic knobs but they didn't fit. The new stainless knobs are substantial and fit the cook top perfectly. We are very happy with the results.

Well, after I finally got the parts, the repair was easier than anticipated. You deffinitely want to lift the unit out to replace the spark module and swap over one wire at a time so you dont forget where they go, (important on a gas stove) When I pulled out the old unit I found it was just jammed in there when constructed, I expected more from Jenn-air, and the plastic casing was broke and pulled apart. Surprised it lasted this long. Also three of the ceramic insulators on the ignitors were broke or cracked. But over all the unit was fairly simple to repair if you take your time and practice safety. Remember, you are working with gas and electicity, and use soapy water to check your connection when you reconnect the gas line. Dont try to work on it still hooked up and in its mount . Disconnect it and lift it out.

I removed the burner cap and then the two screws that held the burner in place, pulled it out about 3 inches, disconected the ignitor and pluged the new one in, put the burner back in place and put the two screws back in, replaced the burner cap and it was done. I would also like to mention that I ordered my replacement part on Sunday evening and recieved it on Tuesday morning. Thanks Part Select!!!

The igniiter is made of ceramic and had cracked.
I remove the burner assembly, but couldn't remove the screw holding the igniter. After trying liquid wrench and every available screw driver. I opted to order the complete burner assembly. I installed the new assembly in 5 minutes and it worked great. This is the second ceramic igniter that has cracked on this stove top and both times I've had to replace the whole assembly. For a $1000 stovetop, I expected better quality. I'm just wondering how many times I'm going to have to replace burner assemblies. Each time it's been a different assembly.

I've done this once before on this same gas stovetop as the electrode can degrade if it suffers from too many "boil-overs". The most important thing to do if the 2 screws holding the burner head on the cooktop are "tight" and don't unscrew easily is to soak them with WD-40 to loosen them up. Don't be in a hurry. They may need a couple of soak and waits. Once the screws are out, it's just a matter of connecting the wire on the electrode and replacing the burner. Also a Star screwdriver that fits properly is essential.

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches to disconnect the electric wire - it had a small bayonet connection. I turned the element over and unscrewed the small screw holding the ignitor to the element freeing the ignitor from the element. After receiving the part from Part Select, I reversed the process...

1. attaching the ignitor to the underside of the element using the small screw.
2. reattaching the electric wire to the ignitor.
3. positioning the element on the stove top.
4. reattaching the eelement using the 2 screws.
5. testing and finding it worked fine.

A couple of observations:

1. The screws holding the element to the stove are star screws while the screw attaching the ignitor to the element is Phillips - necessitating 2 different screwdrives for an easy repair.

2. I had problems with the initial part delivery - it went to a wrong address. PartSelect Customer Service was great. I had a less than 5min wait for getting a rep on the line with the 1 call I had to make to get this corrected. And when I did get a rep she was both helpful, friendly and knowledgeable in correcting the situation.

Disassembly: Removed 2 screws with nutdriver. Pulled off electrode connection. Screws were rusted and needed replacement.

Assembly: Slipped on electrode attachment. Went to local hardware store and bought 5/8" 8/18 pan head screws. Used screwdriver to screw down burner head. The 3/8" inch screws on the tech sheet do not work. Too short and flange is too wide to fit in opening in burner head.

I thought the problem was with one ignitor that had the ceramic piece fall off. After I replaced the ignitor, the hard part was freeing the burner from the Torx screws - drilled both screws out, all five burners started clicking and kept on clicking even when the burners were lit. I needed to get at the electrical of the cooktop, so I needed to take the other four burners off. Six of the eight screws loosened, with the two that didn't I drilled them out. I made sure the circuit was off and unplugged the burner too. Finally I was able to look at the wiring. I checked for burn marks, made sure all the connections were good, checked the grounding wires, and then attached the burners with ignitors. I turned the power back on, plugged it in, and all the burners kept right on sparking. I had been checking on Youtube and talked to a friend, everything pointed to needing a new Spark Module. So I ordered the Spark Module and just had to wait for it to arrive. Once it came, I had done the hard part of getting all the burners off. So, after loosening four hex-head screws, I was able to replace the old Spark Module with the new. I was careful to take a picture of the wiring and burners, as well as the wires coming into the Spark Module to make sure I put everything back the way it was. Finally, I moved one line at a time from the old one to the new one. Took the back clip off and put it on the new one. Then I secured the new Spark Module with the four hex-head screws, fed the wires through the holes in the top of the cooktop by holding it at an angle and working my way from left to right (all while lowering the cooktop), lined up the gas line pipes, and reattached the burners. Turned the power on, plugged it in and it worked! All five burners ignited and worked just like they should. What started out as a simple cleaning of the ignitors, turned into quite a job. Thanks to the ease of PartSelect ordering and reading through these installation instructions I was able to fix my cooktop.

This is the 3rd burner head that was replaced . everyone had the screws break off , & had to be drilled out & re tapped .I would not purchase the replacement screws @$4.00 each . They were just plain sheet metal screws that were steel . Better going to a home center & purchasing brass or stainless machine screws at a 1/4 of the cost .If you are not familiar with drilling out broken screws ,then this is not the repair for you .

The ceramic on the electrode broke due to water over boiling the week of Thanksgiving. When i tried to loosen the screw to replace the electrode it broke off inside the threads. Ordered whole new unit overnight. Back in business in five minutes. Thanksgiving was back on!! Thanks!