JGB290DEN2BB General Electric Range - Instructions
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The igniter glowed, but never got hot enough to ignite the propane, so I did smell propane.
First, I removed the two screws that held the heat shield in place. Second, I removed the one screw that held a small wire covering. That covering kept the wires inside the back wall of the range. Third, I removed the two screws that held the Igniter Kit, and unplugged it from the back of the range. I then carefully put the new igniter in, and reassembled everything in reverse order. It only took about 30 minutes to do the repair, and 30 minutes of cleaning and wiping of the broiler area. (It is amazing what you see when you take things apart). I should have been wiping things up over the past few months. Overall, a very easy repair. I ordered the part at 12:30 in the afternoon, and FedEx delivered it the next morning at 11:30, all for the regular shipping price of $6.95. VERY HAPPY.....
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Sidney from Marysville, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
671 of 718 people
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oven would not light or keep temp.
first I thought it was a faulty gas valve, so I pulled it out, started researching for a replacement part, found your site and started research. I discovered thhat the igniter was the culprit, that info. saved me about a week of time and a 100 bucks, so I installed the gas safety valve back in the oven, patience is the word for the day, you cross thread this and you are done! any way ordered ignighter and it shipped to my house in about 4 days, New York to Calif. had it installed in about 15 minutes fired off the oven and ...IT worked hurray...10-9-2010,
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zack from corning, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
448 of 461 people
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Oven wouldn't heat. This degraded over several weeks.
1. Pulled the 110V power plug. It was not necessary to turn off the gas; just be careful not to stretch or pinch the flexhose behind the stove.
2. Removed the oven door by opening a couple of inches then lifting upward.
3. Removed the warming drawer by pulling out to the stop, then pushing the small levers on the side of the track to release.
4. Removed two flathead screws at the back of the oven to free up the oven bottom panel.
5. Removed the bottom panel by lifting up the pack until the front edge clears the overhang.
6. Removed the two screws on the side that hold the igniter to the burner tube. Be sure not to let the screws drop into the gaps in the oven floor. Note the position of the bent tab with the holes to ease aligning the new part.
7. Reached through the warming drawer to release the plug by squeezing the tabs on the end.
8. Pulled the plug up through the gap in the oven floor (where the wires went through) and connected it to the other connector.
9. Ran the new wire down through the oven floor.
10. Aligned the new igniter and tightened them. Had trouble getting the screws started so I used a toothpick to align one hole while starting the other screw.
11. Replaced the oven bottom panel. It needed a little jockeying to get the screws and holes aligned.
12. Replaced the door.
13. Replaced the oven drawer.
This turned out to be a good time to clean all those dusty places that don't get cleaned that often.
2. Removed the oven door by opening a couple of inches then lifting upward.
3. Removed the warming drawer by pulling out to the stop, then pushing the small levers on the side of the track to release.
4. Removed two flathead screws at the back of the oven to free up the oven bottom panel.
5. Removed the bottom panel by lifting up the pack until the front edge clears the overhang.
6. Removed the two screws on the side that hold the igniter to the burner tube. Be sure not to let the screws drop into the gaps in the oven floor. Note the position of the bent tab with the holes to ease aligning the new part.
7. Reached through the warming drawer to release the plug by squeezing the tabs on the end.
8. Pulled the plug up through the gap in the oven floor (where the wires went through) and connected it to the other connector.
9. Ran the new wire down through the oven floor.
10. Aligned the new igniter and tightened them. Had trouble getting the screws started so I used a toothpick to align one hole while starting the other screw.
11. Replaced the oven bottom panel. It needed a little jockeying to get the screws and holes aligned.
12. Replaced the door.
13. Replaced the oven drawer.
This turned out to be a good time to clean all those dusty places that don't get cleaned that often.
Parts Used:
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Durwood from Suffield, CT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
307 of 403 people
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oven wouldn't heat
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about three inches and disconnected the wires.
I had tried to get a replacement element from Sears but their new element did not have the proper connecter and was missing the flange on the side that the screws went. I am very pleased that I was able to get the exact replacemen part.
I had tried to get a replacement element from Sears but their new element did not have the proper connecter and was missing the flange on the side that the screws went. I am very pleased that I was able to get the exact replacemen part.
Parts Used:
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Billie J. from Western Grove, AR
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
35 of 36 people
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No power to electronic readout screen there was no control to the oven at all. The troubleshooting guide in the oven manual several symtoms said to replace the electronic control board. So I did.
First of all disconnect the power cord and then remove the top section of the oven which consisted of 2 small allen screws located in the front bottom corners [ left and right ] on the frontside. On the backside there was 2 phillip screws on top corners [ left and right ]. Also there was 2 bolthead screws that I use my small socket set or you can use a small ajustable wrench. Once all these were removed it rolled forward right off. The control board was located in the center of the panel. Made sure the part matched up and it did, removed 4 small corner phillip screws and 4 or 5 removable plug in wire connectors which were easily identified. Put everything back together, plug power cord back in and the electronic display came on. Everything worked on the oven. done deal.
Parts Used:
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victor from thatcher, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
33 of 39 people
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oven would not ignite
1. removed old oven glow igniter using nut driver socket--it wasn't that tight so I didn't have to use the actual driver. The igniter was now loose hanging from its 2 wires.
2. on the web I read that the new part would have to be spliced to the old, however I was able to push the old igniter through a hole in the oven wall and then pull it out of an adjoining hole on the right hand side. With some effort I detached the old igniter from a plug receptacle that leads back up to the main wiring junction of the oven.
3. I then plugged the new igniter into the receptacle, pushed it back into one hole, then fished it out of the other hole. I could then reattach the new igniter onto the gas delivery tube. Turned the oven on and it worked.
2. on the web I read that the new part would have to be spliced to the old, however I was able to push the old igniter through a hole in the oven wall and then pull it out of an adjoining hole on the right hand side. With some effort I detached the old igniter from a plug receptacle that leads back up to the main wiring junction of the oven.
3. I then plugged the new igniter into the receptacle, pushed it back into one hole, then fished it out of the other hole. I could then reattach the new igniter onto the gas delivery tube. Turned the oven on and it worked.
Parts Used:
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Kwatei from Nutley, NJ
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
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I broke the oriface lines
First I needed the correct model number & the correct part numbers for the two front tube assemblies. After that well.... I removed everything on top of the stove. I then proceded to remove all the torx screws for each orifice holder bracket & igniter wires so i could raise the top lid ( without this step you will wind up replacing more than one tube assembly!) Be careful when removing color coded wires so that they work with the correct burner. Remove compression nut to burner valve... i used a crowfoot. remove orifice holder from bracket & install new holder ( onto bracket). Install orifice assembly to burner valve ( do not over tighten), re-install wires to igniters, lower lid, and re-install torx screws. The correct parts require little effort to align. Last of all, test burners and check for leaks. Thanks for reading, I will continue to learn from my mistakes!
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EARL from Buda, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Oven would not cycle on/off/on maintain heat
1. Pull the oven out to access the connector in the back of the oven near the bottom center to disconnect the connector to the ignitor. Then push the connector and wire through the hole in the back of the oven.
2. Removed the broiler drawer to access the ignitor.
3. Removed the two screws holding ignitor to the burner bar, then pull wire the remaining way through the rear hole.
4. Installed the new part with the two screws to the burner bar.
5. Insert the wires with connector througth the hole in the rear of the oven to reconnect to the plug at the back outside of the oven Reconnect the connector at the back of the oven.
6. Push the oven back in place and it is ready to use.
2. Removed the broiler drawer to access the ignitor.
3. Removed the two screws holding ignitor to the burner bar, then pull wire the remaining way through the rear hole.
4. Installed the new part with the two screws to the burner bar.
5. Insert the wires with connector througth the hole in the rear of the oven to reconnect to the plug at the back outside of the oven Reconnect the connector at the back of the oven.
6. Push the oven back in place and it is ready to use.
Parts Used:
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Keith from Osceola, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
20 of 23 people
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burner would not lite
openend stove top disconnected wire pushed out old sparker inserted new one closed lid game over
Parts Used:
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Glen from Kenner, LA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
23 of 33 people
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Oven would not ignite
1. Moved oven from the wall.
2. Unplugged the stove from the electrical outlet.
3. Removed over racks and bottom panel.
4. Located wires leading from the igniter in the back of the stove.
5. Disconnected the wires from the ignitor.
6. Used socket set to remove screws from ignitor.
7. Cut connector plug from new ignitor.
8. Stripped about a half inch of insulation from wires of new ignitor to be able to connect it to stove.
9. Carefully handled new ignitor and screwed it into place.
10. Attached wires of new ignitor using new caps.
11. Put bottom panel and racks into place.
12. Plugged oven into electrical outlet - Oven ignited and made a good dinner.
2. Unplugged the stove from the electrical outlet.
3. Removed over racks and bottom panel.
4. Located wires leading from the igniter in the back of the stove.
5. Disconnected the wires from the ignitor.
6. Used socket set to remove screws from ignitor.
7. Cut connector plug from new ignitor.
8. Stripped about a half inch of insulation from wires of new ignitor to be able to connect it to stove.
9. Carefully handled new ignitor and screwed it into place.
10. Attached wires of new ignitor using new caps.
11. Put bottom panel and racks into place.
12. Plugged oven into electrical outlet - Oven ignited and made a good dinner.
Parts Used:
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Jeffery Jankowski from Bronx, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
19 of 24 people
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Pies Boiled Over And Baked On Oven Bottom
Removed the two screws put the heat shield off the old one onto the new one put new bottom in and tightened two screws. Done #38. 69 Cost of part with shipping cost included.
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Marjorie from Yucca Valley, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
17 of 21 people
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oven would not light
This repair was fairly simple, just took the door off, then the 2 screws in the back, lift the bottom out. then remove shield to valve unplug the old igniter. then put it all back in reverse order. it worked great.
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Jason from FERNDALE, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
15 of 16 people
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Oven rack missing when I purchased the house
I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.
Parts Used:
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Patricia from Houston, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Oven burner was burned out, wouldn't light
Pull plug and shut off gas! The lower oven burner is held in with two rear and one front screws. I removed the top floor of the oven (two hand tightened screws at the back), the bottom drawer, and the front door (just lift it off the hinges). This allowed me to access the burner, and I removed it by unscrewing the three screws, unhitching the igniter connector, and lifting the burner and igniter up and out. I connected the new igniter on the new burner before installing it in the oven, and found that the connector did not match (I was warned about this possibility on the PartSelect site), but instead of splicing the wires together, I cut off the connector on the new igniter and replaced it with the connector of the old igniter. Then I screwed the burner into the oven, recoupled the connector, replaced the floor, drawer, and door, and I was done! It took about 45 minutes.
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Matthew from Goshen, IN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Wrench set
13 of 14 people
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oven would not heat
first i removed the screws that held the element and put the other one on. still would not heat . so i took the back of stove ,sides of stove loose to trace wires and under the top of stove i found a wire that comes from oven switch had been bitten into by a mouse wire nutted and electrical taped the wire back togeather and it workes fine . keep in mind there are 3 thinge that could be wrong. it goes from the switch, to the gas valve in broialer to the igniter switch,gas,fire .
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christine from picayune, MS
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
15 of 21 people
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