Models > JE89001

JE89001 General Electric Microwave - Overview

Sections of the JE89001

[Viewing 1 of 1]
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Secondary Door Switch – Part Number: WB24X829
Secondary Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS237421
Manufacturer #: WB24X829
  No Longer Available
Ceramic Fuse - 15 Amp – Part Number: WB27X7
Ceramic Fuse - 15 Amp
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS240270
Manufacturer #: WB27X7
$5.26
  Special Order
Rectangle Glass Tray – Part Number: WB48X194
Rectangle Glass Tray
PartSelect #: PS249692
Manufacturer #: WB48X194
  No Longer Available
High Voltage Diode – Part Number: WB27X1160
High Voltage Diode
PartSelect #: PS239843
Manufacturer #: WB27X1160
This diode has a 1/4" female connection and an eyelet.
  No Longer Available
SPRAY-MEILMOD WHITE – Part Number: WB64X5022
SPRAY-MEILMOD WHITE
PartSelect #: PS254862
Manufacturer #: WB64X5022
$57.24
  Special Order
PIN-CLIP Assembly – Part Number: WB2X7566
PIN-CLIP Assembly
PartSelect #: PS242635
Manufacturer #: WB2X7566
  No Longer Available
Magnetron – Part Number: WB27X10249
Magnetron
PartSelect #: PS239377
Manufacturer #: WB27X10249
This part is used to generate microwave energy/heat.
$420.61
  Special Order
SCREW CAM – Part Number: WB1X721
SCREW CAM
PartSelect #: PS235046
Manufacturer #: WB1X721
$23.97
  Special Order
HOLDER-FUSE – Part Number: WB06X10005
HOLDER-FUSE
PartSelect #: PS227721
Manufacturer #: WB06X10005
  No Longer Available
TRIM-HANDLE – Part Number: WB15X248
TRIM-HANDLE
PartSelect #: PS232198
Manufacturer #: WB15X248
  No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: WB55X633
DISCONTINUED
PartSelect #: PS251670
Manufacturer #: WB55X633
  No Longer Available
WINDOW – Part Number: WB36X726
WINDOW
PartSelect #: PS247639
Manufacturer #: WB36X726
$26.14
  Special Order

Questions And Answers for JE89001

Be the first to ask our experts a question about this model!

Common Symptoms of the JE89001

[Viewing 4 of 4]
Doesn’t shut off
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing
Show All
Won’t turn on
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing Fixing
Show All
No heat
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing Fixing
Show All
Touchpad does not respond
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing
Show All
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
Parts Used:
Secondary Door Switch
  • Marla from Arlington, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
311 of 371 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
All electircal functions worked except the heating mechanism
A great place to start is to reveiw the posting from "Marla From Arlington TX" posted on 8-3-09. It provides an excellent description of the process that you will need to follow. The only additional thing that I would add is to check the contacts on the switches. In my case I found that all three of the switches had a small build-up of corrosion. I used sandpaper to clean the contacts. Because none of the switches had a "soft" click to them, it was hard to identify the bad one. I basically picked the worse looking one and then cleaned the contacts of the other two. I'm not sure if I actually even had a bad switch or if they all just needed cleaning. Whatever the case, it worked. I would suggest checking the contacts first. You may get away with not having to replace any of the switches. And in my case what makes me think that it may have just simply been dirty contacts is that the heating mechanism would engage every now and then. It wasn't dead 100 percent of the time. It's worth a try anyway.
Parts Used:
Secondary Door Switch
  • Chad from Firestone, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
48 of 63 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Microwave Fan Turned on When Door Was Opened
To get to the switches you need to remove the metal cover/housing of the microwave, by first removing several screws that hold it in place, and then sliding the cover towards the back of the unit. You'll find the switches in some plastic holders above the door-open button, and it's its easy to see how the mechanism engages/disengages the switches when the door is opened and closed.

If it is not obvious which switch is bad, in our case the bad switch felt "soft" when we pressed the switch button with our fingers. A good switch has a firm "click" when pressed.

The switches are easy to replace - pop out the old switch (no tools required) and pull off the electrical connectors. Then pop in the new switch and reattach the connectors.
Parts Used:
Secondary Door Switch
  • Bishop from Coupland, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
46 of 57 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!