JCS968KF4CC General Electric Range - Overview

Diagrams for JCS968KF4CC

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Meat Probe Thermistor – Part Number: WB20T10024
$77.91
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Meat Probe Thermistor
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Part #WB20T10024
This probe is used to check the internal temperature of the meat to ensure proper temperature is reached. Also known as a Meat Probe.
Convection Element – Part Number: WB44T10053
$105.18
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REAR SUPPORT – Part Number: WB02X33180
No Longer Available
REAR SUPPORT
Part #WB02X33180
This genuine GE drawer support is an original replacement part sourced from the manufacturer and is designed for use with electric ranges. Made of durable plastic, it attaches to the rear of the drawer and provides stable support by securing the rear side in place. This part includes the necessary mounting screw for installation and is sold individually. It’s a simple yet essential component for maintaining smooth drawer operation and proper alignment.
Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB23T10015
$63.84
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Oven Sensor
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Part #WB23T10015
This temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
Foot - Leveller – Part Number: WB02X10521
$29.72
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Foot - Leveller
Part #WB02X10521
Sold individually.
Halogen Bulb Kit – Part Number: WB49X29679
No Longer Available
Halogen Bulb Kit
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(3)
Part #WB49X29679
This light bulb is used in the interior oven. NOTE: This bulb has looped pins, not the straight pins.
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch – Part Number: WB30T10099
$198.87
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Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
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Part #WB30T10099
This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measures 10 inches. If there is no heat generated from your element, you may need to replace this part. You may also need to check your socket or infinite switch. It is located under the glass cooktop of your appliance. Be sure to unplug or cut the circuit breaker to your appliance before starting this repair. Before replacing this part, be sure your appliance is getting enough power. If it is receiving less than the required 220 volts of alternating current, the surface element will not work.
Infinite Control Switch – Part Number: WB24T10119
$202.38
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Front Drawer Support – Part Number: WB48T10013
$17.70
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Front Drawer Support
Part #WB48T10013
Dual Burner Control Switch – Part Number: WB24T10063
$230.03
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Dual Burner Control Switch
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Part #WB24T10063
This control switch regulates heat for dual-element burners on compatible ranges and cooktops. It cycles power to manage both inner and outer coils, allowing accurate temperature control. If your burner heats unevenly or stays on high, replacing the switch may resolve the issue. Installation requires access behind the control knob and should be done with the power off.
Screw – Part Number: WB1K5157
$13.95
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Screw
Part #WB1K5157
This screw is black in color and sold individually.
Window Pack Assembly – Part Number: WB56T10105
$223.56
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Window Pack Assembly
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Part #WB56T10105
The GE Oven Door Window Pack Assembly is a genuine OEM part that fits select GE ranges and ovens. It includes a heat-resistant inner glass panel, frame, and seals, providing insulation and clear visibility into the oven cavity. Common issues like cracked glass or heat loss can indicate the need for a replacement. Ensure the oven is cool to the touch and wear gloves for safe installation.

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Large burner on dual element burned out
102 of 116 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scot from Oakland, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:

1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.

2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.

2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.

3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.

4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.

5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.

7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.

8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.

9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.

10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.

11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.

12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).

13. Turn on the breaker and test again.

Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
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Coil Burned Out
63 of 94 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from St Augustine, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Open lid,un screw coil,pop in new coil snap holders in place,then cook a steak
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Oven was not coming up to temperature
57 of 79 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sean from Highlands Ranch, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I had to remove the oven from the wall because the sensor plug connction is behind the unit. Two screws hold the sensor inside the oven and then I disconnected the lead and pulled the sensor out from the front. I installed the new sensor, tightened the two screws holding it in and connected the lead. Then reinstalled the oven into the wal l. Overall, a very easy repair once you get the oven out.
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