JB900SK2SS General Electric Range - Overview

Diagrams for JB900SK2SS

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Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V – Part Number: WB44T10011
$104.44
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Bake Element - Push On Terminals - 240V
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Part #WB44T10011
This bake element is found on the bottom of the oven. This part is made of metal, and is approximately 20 inches in length and 18 inches in width.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$19.10
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Light Bulb - 40W
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Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Temperature Sensor – Part Number: WB21X22134
$36.73
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Temperature Sensor
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Part #WB21X22134
The temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity. If your oven is too hot, not heating evenly, or has little to no heat when baking, you may need to replace the temperature sensor. The sensor is usually located in the back of the oven. This is a genuine OEM part. Please make sure to disconnect the power to your range before starting your repair.
Foot - Leveller – Part Number: WB02X10521
$29.72
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Foot - Leveller
Part #WB02X10521
Sold individually.
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch – Part Number: WB30T10099
$198.87
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Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
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Part #WB30T10099
This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measures 10 inches. If there is no heat generated from your element, you may need to replace this part. You may also need to check your socket or infinite switch. It is located under the glass cooktop of your appliance. Be sure to unplug or cut the circuit breaker to your appliance before starting this repair. Before replacing this part, be sure your appliance is getting enough power. If it is receiving less than the required 220 volts of alternating current, the surface element will not work.
Infinite Control Switch – Part Number: WB24T10119
$202.38
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RECEPTACLE PUSH-IN – Part Number: WB08T10026
$15.95
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RECEPTACLE PUSH-IN
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Part #WB08T10026
This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
Dual Burner Control Switch – Part Number: WB24T10063
$230.03
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Dual Burner Control Switch
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Part #WB24T10063
This control switch regulates heat for dual-element burners on compatible ranges and cooktops. It cycles power to manage both inner and outer coils, allowing accurate temperature control. If your burner heats unevenly or stays on high, replacing the switch may resolve the issue. Installation requires access behind the control knob and should be done with the power off.
Light Cover – Part Number: WB36X192
$27.85
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Door Gasket – Part Number: WB04T10022
$94.43
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Door Gasket
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Part #WB04T10022
This gasket is used to seal the oven door. This Is Approx 73" Long For 84" Long Order PS227119
Control Knob – Part Number: WB03T10078
$47.57
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Control Knob
Part #WB03T10078
Sold individually.
Window Pack Assembly – Part Number: WB56T10105
$223.56
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Window Pack Assembly
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Part #WB56T10105
The GE Oven Door Window Pack Assembly is a genuine OEM part that fits select GE ranges and ovens. It includes a heat-resistant inner glass panel, frame, and seals, providing insulation and clear visibility into the oven cavity. Common issues like cracked glass or heat loss can indicate the need for a replacement. Ensure the oven is cool to the touch and wear gloves for safe installation.

Manuals & Care Guides for JB900SK2SS

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oven element burned itself up
270 of 294 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from Bondville, VT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Turned off circuit breaker to range.
Removed the 2 oven racks. Removed two screws in back of oven compartment. Pulled element forward and the terminal connections get exposed.
The right terminal clip disconnected by itself and the wire went back into the stove and could not be retrieved.
Removed range draw under the oven an d pulled entire range out from wall about 4 feet.. Removed metal backing with a socket wrench and exposed the oven element wires and terminals.
Reinstalled new element and metal backing.
Since range was out from wall, cleaned and vacuumed before pushing stove back in place.
Since range draw was out re-leveled by setting adjustable feet.
Reinstalled drawer and racks.
Turned on circuit breaker.
Tested element by setting bake cycle on.
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The baking assembly in the oven burst into flames one day, then broke apart.
142 of 152 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Theresa from Sherman, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
After the element cooled down, I pulled the racks out of the oven, turned off the oven at the breaker box, then, using a nut driver, loosened the screws that held the baking assembly in the back of the oven, and pulled the connecting wires off. I bent the wires to make sure they would stay out, because if they get back in the insulation, they are hard to find. I would recommend getting a pair of locking pliers and putting them on the ends of the wires just to keep them from getting back into the insulation. Then I attached the left connection wire and then the right one, pushed them back into the insulation, tightened the baking assembly to the back wall of the oven, turned it back on at the breaker box, then tested the oven to see if it heated up. It did. Total repair time 15 -20 minutes. Would have been less if I didn't have to chase one of the wires back in the insulation. Shamless plug for the company ...By paying extra for 2-day shipping to receive the part, I saved just over $20 from buying it at Sears, which would have had to order the part anyway.
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Oven would go in to a F2 Error
148 of 226 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from stamford, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
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