J797E1 General Electric Range - Instructions

Repair was simple (just lift off the old and put on the new). What was pleasantly surprising was how quickly I received the parts (amazing)!

Lastly, I've been looking for the correct parts/sizes in stores for years (yes, I should have tried this sooner). I was delighted to finally find a place that actually had the correct parts.

Old gasket had become brittle. Was able to find the 22 yr old model and part on PartSelect (could not track it down on GE's site. Inner panel was removed with four screws. Old gasket came out. Installed new gasket making sure the bead fit into the groove provided in the door panel. Re-assembled. All is well. Thanks

1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.

Successful repair to Our GE range, manufactured prior to 1965 (when installed in house). Pulled range from wall, unplugged, removed burned-out broiler element. Previous check with GE to make cross reference of range part number to Part-select part number for this nearly 50-year-old range. Obtained new part and installed. Works. Range has self-cleaning oven, accidentally destroyed thermal switch attached to element mounting bracket, difficulty with frozen mounting nut. Self-cleaning still works; thermal switch locks out a solenoid which defeats door latch; prevents premature opening of oven door when oven too hot to open safely. Internet search did not find GE part but there are generic devices of the same type available; will consider installation later.

Received the Drip bowls and Rings very quickly. Opened the box and then cut open the plastic wrap that the individual rings and drip bowls were in. Lifted the burner on the stove top, took out the old ring and drip bowl. Installed the shiny new drip bowl and ring, then lowered the stove top element back into place. I was able to replace all 4 of them within 5 minutes. Made the 30 year old stove look brand new.Thank you for perfect fit parts and fast delivery.

In order to determine what was wrong with the oven I used a voltage meter to determine if power was coming to the element in the first place. Be careful to set your meter at least 500 ACV, as the oven is operating at 240V. Remove the two screws that hold the element in place and carefully pull it out of the side of the oven. Turn on the bake element in the upper oven and place your test leads to either side of the connection leads. If you get a reading of 240Volts plus or minus you will know for sure the element is bad.
Turn off the oven, or even better turn off the circuit breaker to your stove.
There are two leads to the element that are held in place by self taping screws. If you have the same luck I have they will be corroded together. Carefully use long nose pliers to hold steady while gently applying pressure. If necessary use liquid wrench. When separated put together in the reverse order as how you took it apart.

First I removed the two screws in the back. then I removed the two screws attached to the brace at the top. pulled the old element out. Removed the screws that attatced the wires to the element. Attached the wires to the new element. Pushed the wires back in. Pushed the element in and attached the screws. Reattached the support. Turned on the broiler. The element smoked for a few seconds before getting red hot. It is working fine.

Pull the stove out from the wall and unplug. Had to remove back of stove, the aluminum sheilding and the duct work to get at wires use nut driver. Then used nut driver to remove nuts from broiler unit inside stove. Take the front overn dover off first. The new part did not match up with the wires so I used a needle nose to spread the wire clips just a tad so they would fit over the tabs of the broiler unit. Do all of this behind the stove as you do not have eough wire to do this effectively from the oven side. After I had the tabs fitted to the broiler unit. I removed them and fed wires back through the stove. I then went back to the front of the stove and put the broiler back in and put support bar back in to ceiling of stove and the two nuts back on to affix broiler to back of oven. Put the aluminum baccking and duct work back onto the back of the stove and plugged it back in. Pretty easy job.

So this ancient stove we inherited when we bought our house had the drip bowls wrapped in tin foil. We've searched EVERY (not joking) store in our area for drip bowls that would fit it, but apparently Hotpoint wanted to make sure you could never do this - well, at least not easily. No one, not one store carries drip bowls to fit it. I finally searched online and partselect.com came up first on the list. I was amazed they had the right part! Better yet, ordering was beyond easy, and they came super quick. Popped in the parts in less than 2 minutes, and we're good to go - makes this old stove look new! (well, if this was the 80's, lol) When I clicked on the part it said which stoves it would fit, which was also very helpful. Thank goodness for Part Select! Otherwise we would've had to rewrap those disgusting old bowls... I'd recommend this site in a heartbeat!

Turned off power at panellboard. Disconnected mounting hardware from inside oven chamber. Pulled failed heating element with wires attached into the oven chamber. Disconnected wiring and reconnected them to the new heating element. Tightened screws while holding connectors with pliers. Applied electrical tape to connections. Pushed wires back into opening and secured heating element back into place. Restored power nad verifed proper operation. The other heater purchased will be used when the bake element finally fails,

(1) Turned off power source.
(2) Removed rust on screw heads before attempting to loosening them up.
(3) Pulled the element out to expose the connections.
(4) Disconnected with phillips screw driver, taped off wires to prevent mixed-up during re-installation.
(5) Re-installed new element using new screws provided.

this repair is simple. Just unscrew the existing connection and attach the new heating element. You may have to break the existing ceramic element, but a new one comes with the new heat element.

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

I removed the screw holding the tilt-lock hinge, then removed the insulator brackets and unscrewed the wire terminals. Units come with new insulators, brackets, terminal screws & hinge screw. This is a very straightforward operation.

Replaced all the ordered parts, and straightened a bent "rest piece" (one of three) on the element os the large burner, which made it rest perfectly on the new Trim Ring. It doesn't easily fall down into the bowl now while I am using the burner. The new Bowls look so nice, and the stove looks nearly new!

I now know where to go for help when I need to repair appliances. You seem to have everything that could possibly be needed. Thank you!