Your washer uses 4 tub dampening straps. It is recommended to replace all 4 at the same time. They keep the tub in the center of the cabinet and are sold individually.
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. This seal is difficult to replace and should probably ...
This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you...
The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed.
$68.69
Special Order
Questions And Answers for HSWP1000M3WW
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
7 questions answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
2
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Scott
February 4, 2020
Machine was draining,but not spinning,then stopped filling when put to start,but would fill if timer was moved to other positions,still drained but wouldn't spin. I replaced timer, but still had problem,got machine to cycle once on whites setting,but arrow was in wrong place when finished. Machine still wont work if put to colors start!
For model number HSWP1000M3WW
Hello Scott, thank you for your question. If the arrow is in the wrong place we would recommend checking the configuration of the timer you installed. The other issue could be the lid switch Lid Switch with Wire Harness Part Number: WH12X10334. We hope this helps.
1 person found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Joshua
March 23, 2023
my washer only spins on super load size do you know why?
For model number HSWP1000M3WW
Hello Joshua, thank you for the question. According to our research, the cause of this problem could be that the load is not properly balanced. Also, the washing machine itself should be balanced properly. We suggest inspecting the water level pressure switch, part number PS3487292. If it is faulty, you may need to replace it. If the problem persists, the shaft and drive tub assembly, part number PS3652839, is most likely to blame. It may be bad or broken. If the issue remains, you may need to replace the drive motor and inverter assembly, part number PS8746234. We hope this is helpful!
drum spins but the clothes are still wet. Wash/rinse water gone from tub.
For model number HSWP1000M3WW
Hi David, thank you for your inquiry. Check if you have overloaded the washing machine with too many clothes. Overloading can prevent the machine from properly agitating and spinning the clothes, resulting in poor water extraction. Make sure the clothes inside the drum are distributed evenly. Ensure that the drain hose is not clogged or kinked. If all the functions of the unit appear to be working okay, then there is a possibility that the unit is either siphoning water back in after a cycle because of a slow house drain, or the inlet valves may be letting some water in at the end of the cycle. We recommend checking the water inlet valve, part number PS11721803. We hope this information helps!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dewey
February 8, 2020
Is there another agitator for this washer other than the original? This agitator is poorly designed.
For model number HSWP1000M3WW
Hello and thank you for writing.
The agitator # PS11736866 is in the list of compatible parts for your model., this is the only one available for your unit. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
Why is the light blinking on the electric motor and also it spins too fast.
For model number HSWP1000M3WW
Hi Leslie,
Thank you for your question. If your washer detects an out-of-balance condition, the spin light will blink during the remaining portion of the cycle and it will stay illuminated for a short time after the cycle has completed. When the light is on, the washer is trying to correct the out-of-balance condition and complete the cycle normally. If the washer is not able to balance the load, it will start to spin faster. If your clothes are still wet at the end cycle, you will need to redistribute the load evenly in the wash basket and run a Drain & Spin cycle. Never overload the washer and make sure that the washer is level. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
< Prev
1
2
Next >
✖
Ask a Question
Ask our experts a question on this model and we'll respond as soon as we can.
After removing frt panel which prys off I checked for anything obvious like a loose belt. Then I jiggled the magnet switch located on the inside of the loading cover. I saw the machine start agitating the it stopped again when I stopped touching it. I ordered the new part and spliced it in with the wire crip tool. Now the machine is A ok.
To diagnose, first I unhooked the washer: power, water supply, and drain pipe. I then slid the washer out, laying it on its front. With nutdriver, I unscrewed two screws that held the other end of the drain tube and removed it completely. Then, again with the nutdriver removed 4 screws from the back near the legs, two in between the legs in the middle, and approx. 4 to 6 on the bottom. This let me pull the bottom off partially to access the motor area. (I did did not take the bottom completely off, only about 2/3 off and let it bend over, as it was flexible tin) The belt was broken. After receiving the new belt, I positioned it between the pulley and the motor and between the drum and the big pulley. Then I rotated the big pulley, pulling the belt onto it as I rotated. At the same time, as I rotated, I pulled the other end of the belt on to the little pulley. Once it was on, I would put pressure on it as I turned the pulley, to jump the belt to the appropriate grooves on the little pulley. Note: the replacement belt had been modified, so it had one less groove than the pulley. I would have known this if I had read the insert that came with the belt first! Anyway, this was not a problem, only a design change. Also it was important to start the belt on the inside, so if it slipped, you didnt loose your bite. Total diagnostic, repair, and reassembly time: 30 minutes plus or minus. I had read other online forums that said you had to loosen the motor, etc. And I do know some type of a belt installation tool was offered on line, but I got along fine with my installation method. An extra set of hands would have been helpful, but not necessary.
Simply put hands, one under each side of the agitaror and pulled up. The part snapped off very easily. I then placed the new part in the tub and pressed down. Extremely easy, should have done it sooner!
