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HDA2100N10WW Hotpoint Dishwasher - Overview
Diagrams for HDA2100N10WW
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$59.57
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Lower Rack Wheel Kit - 8 Pack
Part #WD35X21038
If your dishwasher door will not close, is noisy when operating, or the dishes are not cleaning properly, you might need to replace one or more of the wheels. Each wheel and axle are made of plastic and fit into one another so they can be clipped on to the lower dishwasher rack.
No Longer Available
Dishwasher Dishrack Rollers and Axles
Part #WD35X20994
This is a kit of 4 which includes the wheels and axels.
$104.33
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Door Gasket - White
Part #WD08X10057
This one piece dishwasher door gasket provides a water tight seal to keep water from leaking out of your dishwasher.
$85.06
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Water Inlet Valve
Part #WD15X10014
This water inlet valve should be located behind the lower kickplate panel in either the right or left corner. The attaching solenoid on the valve open and close according to the desired amount of water needed.
$43.00
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Interlock Switch
Part #WD21X10261
This part is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the appliance from operating when the door is open.
$17.70
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Hinge Arm Link
Part #WD14X10009
The hinge link on your dishwasher connects the spring to the dishwasher door hinge. If the hinge link becomes cracked or damaged, you may not be able to shut or lock your dishwasher door properly. In this case, you will need to replace the hinge link. Pull out your dishwasher to inspect the hinge and spring, if the link is broken, it may ...Read morebe disconnected and on the ground already. If not, you can remove the hinge arm link by simply disconnecting it from the hinge and spring, then replacing it with the new part. The hinge arm link is a small piece of white plastic about an inch and a half long. It is sold individually, and is an OEM part from the manufacturer.
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$78.79
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Rinse Aid Fill Cap
Part #WD12X10284
This part helps keep the rinse aid the dispenser until its needed.
$17.71
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Pump Filter Coupler
Part #WD01X10342
This coupler, also known as a hose connector, is made of white plastic and is about one inch in height, and just over one inch in length. Replacing the coupler is a fairly easy repair. The hardest part of the repair is accessing the spray arm and filter to remove them, in order to replace the coupler. In order to complete this repair, you will need a flat head screwdriver and a 4-inch nut driver.
$44.34
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Inlet Sump
Part #WD18X10039
This works in conjunction with the pump and filtration system. It is used to receive drainage for disposal.
$122.74
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Lower Spray Arm Base
Part #WD12X10244
This part fits just under the fine filter assembly and supports the lower spray arm.
$199.08
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Lower Spray Arm
Part #WD22X10055
This is a replacement lower wash arm assembly for your dishwasher. The lower spray arm is mounted to the bottom of your dishwasher tub and will rotate and spray water during the wash cycle. The spray arm has small holes that spray the water, and these can become clogged with debris and hard water buildup inside your dishwasher. The spray ...Read morearm can also become jammed if silverware falls into the main tub during the cycle. These problems can cause the spray arm to malfunction, which will result in your dishes coming out of the dishwasher unclean. This part is made of white plastic and is sold individually.
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$79.98
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Drain Solenoid and Bracket Assembly
Part #WD21X10268
This valve opens in order for the water to drain out of the dishwasher.
Manuals & Care Guides for HDA2100N10WW
Click to downloadCommon Symptoms of the HDA2100N10WW
How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.
Leaking
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Not cleaning dishes properly
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Not draining
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Will Not Start
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Door latch failure
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Will not dispense detergent
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Will not fill with water
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Door won’t close
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Noisy
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Won’t Start
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Not drying dishes properly
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Telescopic sprayer assembly in the Spray Arm Weld broke top element popped out
107 of 129 people
found this instruction helpful.
First off on this model, if one of the telescopic spray arm weld assembly comes out it is NOT repairable you have to replace the whole part.
The assembly on my model number was simple you do NOT have to PRY anything out...(I broke the base spray arm trying to shove a screw driver into the Spray arm weld.(You could try this but chanc ... Read more es are the plastic will break and I recommend replacing both parts why not???.)
There are two bolts on the sump protector basket that has to be removed first. They are 1/4 inch.
Once that cover is free there is a bolt (also 1/4 inch) on the base spray arm it is easy to see but hard to get to I used a very thin open ended wrench
1/3 turn at a time till I could get the socket on it.
Next there is a rubber gromet like thingy that just pulls loose remove it also.
Next take the spanner wrench (I used one with a rubber belt) wrap around base spray arm and turn counter clockwise it just unscrews.
reassembly is simple but this is GE so I inspected the sump and found one medal impeller and one black screw at the bottom!!!!!
The impeller is threaded and just screws onto the shaft (look at the diagrams on this web site to see placement.)
Throw the screw away it does nothing except if left there jacks up the impeller I am guessing it fell out of some factory workers pocket.
If after you put all the parts back in and the washer does not drain check your reassembly if you don't line the parts up just right the unit will not drain.
Don't forget the rubber grommet (not sure what it does but it's easy to replace after all is assembled) also there is a metal washer that is inbetween the base spray arm and the spray arm weld put it back before you click those two parts together it protect the plastic from wearing it is a bearing!!
If you found this site you are doing really good This site had all the diagrams I was looking for I love you guys you so rock!!! I wish the diagrams were bigger but they were adequate. GE 's site was no help and I doubt I will ever buy another one from them.
Good luck just remember look at the parts diagrams before attempting the repair.
The assembly on my model number was simple you do NOT have to PRY anything out...(I broke the base spray arm trying to shove a screw driver into the Spray arm weld.(You could try this but chanc ... Read more es are the plastic will break and I recommend replacing both parts why not???.)
There are two bolts on the sump protector basket that has to be removed first. They are 1/4 inch.
Once that cover is free there is a bolt (also 1/4 inch) on the base spray arm it is easy to see but hard to get to I used a very thin open ended wrench
1/3 turn at a time till I could get the socket on it.
Next there is a rubber gromet like thingy that just pulls loose remove it also.
Next take the spanner wrench (I used one with a rubber belt) wrap around base spray arm and turn counter clockwise it just unscrews.
reassembly is simple but this is GE so I inspected the sump and found one medal impeller and one black screw at the bottom!!!!!
The impeller is threaded and just screws onto the shaft (look at the diagrams on this web site to see placement.)
Throw the screw away it does nothing except if left there jacks up the impeller I am guessing it fell out of some factory workers pocket.
If after you put all the parts back in and the washer does not drain check your reassembly if you don't line the parts up just right the unit will not drain.
Don't forget the rubber grommet (not sure what it does but it's easy to replace after all is assembled) also there is a metal washer that is inbetween the base spray arm and the spray arm weld put it back before you click those two parts together it protect the plastic from wearing it is a bearing!!
If you found this site you are doing really good This site had all the diagrams I was looking for I love you guys you so rock!!! I wish the diagrams were bigger but they were adequate. GE 's site was no help and I doubt I will ever buy another one from them.
Good luck just remember look at the parts diagrams before attempting the repair.
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