GTW860SPJ0MC General Electric Washer - Overview
Sections of the GTW860SPJ0MC
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Screw 8-16 hxw 1/2 Stainless Steel
PartSelect #: PS258461
Manufacturer #: WD02X10067
This OEM-compatible screw is designed for use with many GE dishwashers. Measuring 8-16 HXW and 1/2" in length, this stainless steel screw secures the middle spray arm hub to the upper rack assembly, e...
$13.95
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HOSE DRAIN
PartSelect #: PS8757195
Manufacturer #: WH41X10319
Are you struggling with a malfunctioning washing machine? We have just the solution you need'the GE Drain Hose. This simple but essential part is tailor-made for washing machines, tasked with safely d...
$81.49
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NUT HUB
PartSelect #: PS8757009
Manufacturer #: WH02X10363
Having trouble with your GE washer? Our Nut Hub could be just the solution you need. This little device has a big job ? it tightly secures your washer hub to the gear case shaft. Its accuracy helps yo...
$19.95
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Common Symptoms of the GTW860SPJ0MC
[Viewing 4 of 4]Not cleaning dishes properly
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Leaking
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Noisy
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Will not drain
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Tub Seal Replacement - Direct Drive with Detergent/Fabric Softener Despensing
This procedure was completely different from any other Tub Seal I've done and in my opinion needs 2 people. The first thing to note is that this seal must be removed from the bottom of the outer tub. Also, the top of this machine does not hinge in back. The typical clips are in front, but the back has 2 screws that must be removed. Since the wiring was too involved to completely separate the top from the base, I had to improvise a stand to hold the top while the rest of the process was completed - keep slack on all remaining connected wires. The motor, clutch and bearing plate must be removed from the bottom in order to access the Tub Seal. Below are the steps I did to complete the process:
- Remove Control Panel Cover (rear)
- Disconnect as many wire harness plugs as possible from Control Board (Note positions for reassembly - pictures work well)
- Remove Pressure Switch
- Disconnect Detergent and Softener dispense hoses from Machine Top
- Rotate top 180 degrees (Flat-Spin) and position so no strain is on the still connected wires.
- Remove Tub Cover
- Remove Impeller (Agitator) from inside tub.
- Remove Tub Nut - Note Left handed Threads (I used 1/2" Drive Impact)
- Remove rear Cross Bar from cabinet (Cross Bar must be removed since tub will not fit through opening. Once removed it must be held in place or outer tub will fall)
- Remove Inner Tub - This tub is heavy and fluid-balanced. Mine required 2 people to wobble and pull for removal.
- Replace Cross bar to keep unit stable
- Lay machine on its side - use care not stretch or pull any wires.
- Remove motor, (Rotor and Stator)
- Remove Clutch and wires
- Loosen all wire ties (Use tiny screwdriver to release ties - Do Not remove the tie mount) securing wires to Bearing Plate and push wires to the outside edge of bearing Plate
- Remove all screws securing Bearing Plate to Outer Tub
- Use flat-head Screwdriver to gently pry Bearing Plate away from outer tub (Quite Heavy - Use Care)
- Tub Seal is now exposed on top of Bearing Plate and can now be removed and replaced (Be sure to clean all seal mating surfaces and lubricate with dish soap)
- Reverse this sequence in the exact order for re-assembly taking care to reconnect all wiring plugs and ground wires.
- During Re-assembly I used Blue Loctite on all bolts securing the Clutch, Stator, and Rotor as I found several very loose on my machine
- Remove Control Panel Cover (rear)
- Disconnect as many wire harness plugs as possible from Control Board (Note positions for reassembly - pictures work well)
- Remove Pressure Switch
- Disconnect Detergent and Softener dispense hoses from Machine Top
- Rotate top 180 degrees (Flat-Spin) and position so no strain is on the still connected wires.
- Remove Tub Cover
- Remove Impeller (Agitator) from inside tub.
- Remove Tub Nut - Note Left handed Threads (I used 1/2" Drive Impact)
- Remove rear Cross Bar from cabinet (Cross Bar must be removed since tub will not fit through opening. Once removed it must be held in place or outer tub will fall)
- Remove Inner Tub - This tub is heavy and fluid-balanced. Mine required 2 people to wobble and pull for removal.
- Replace Cross bar to keep unit stable
- Lay machine on its side - use care not stretch or pull any wires.
- Remove motor, (Rotor and Stator)
- Remove Clutch and wires
- Loosen all wire ties (Use tiny screwdriver to release ties - Do Not remove the tie mount) securing wires to Bearing Plate and push wires to the outside edge of bearing Plate
- Remove all screws securing Bearing Plate to Outer Tub
- Use flat-head Screwdriver to gently pry Bearing Plate away from outer tub (Quite Heavy - Use Care)
- Tub Seal is now exposed on top of Bearing Plate and can now be removed and replaced (Be sure to clean all seal mating surfaces and lubricate with dish soap)
- Reverse this sequence in the exact order for re-assembly taking care to reconnect all wiring plugs and ground wires.
- During Re-assembly I used Blue Loctite on all bolts securing the Clutch, Stator, and Rotor as I found several very loose on my machine
Parts Used:
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Greg from SPRING CITY, TN
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Water leaking into the tub when the washer was off. Also, automatic soap dispenser was not working.
One comment is that the valve assembly should come with hose clamps. I had to run out to the store to purchase hose clamps to reattach the hoses to each valve.
Parts Used:
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Joseph from FORT WORTH, TX
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
1 person
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