This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
This is a replacement crisper drawer for your refrigerator. The drawer is approximately 17 inches long, 13 inches wide, and 9 inches tall. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The cri...
This is a replacement shelf bar end cap. The end cap connects to the shelf bar on either side, and then snaps into position on the freezer door. This will allow you to store items in the freezer door....
This is a replacement freezer handle for your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 20 inches long and 1.5 inches wide. The freezer handle attaches to the freezer door and all...
This is the replacement dairy door for your refrigerator. It is made of clear plastic and is approximately 11 inches wide and 5.5 inches long. The dairy door connects to the shelf and it can be raised...
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
After determining that it was the defrost system, I ordered the thermostat. Make sure you look closely. Mine had two thermostats, and so I had to wait a couple of days for the extra part. 1. Remove ice maker if installed. 2. Remove center casing on ceiling and back wall. There may be two screws that need removed. 3. Locate and remove two screws on upper back wall. 4. Remove back wall carefully, revealing coil system. 5. If this was the problem, the coils will be iced over and need thawed. Either time or a hair dryer... 6. The thermostats clip onto the copper tubing, simply pull them off, keeping close attention to the color of the wires. 7. Be very careful touching the bottom of the coils as the defrost conductor coils are along the bottom and encased in easily breakable glass. If you need to replace this as well, remove the center brace (wire)by pulling towards you and then down. remove wire attachments at both ends and rotate coil out of end braces. 8. Replacing thermostats...you must CUT the wires, and attach new thermostats with wire couplers or wire nuts and then wrap with electrical tape that is rated for the cold. 9. Re-attach all parts and replace back wall and coverings. 10. Enjoy!
Unplugged refrigerator.Checked that new gasket was the right size for freezer.Opened freezer door and lifted inside edge to access screw's. Loosened top screw's and screw's half way down each side and pulled gasket out. Installed new gasket into slot where old gasket was and tightened screw's across top and the first couple down side's.Lifted edge of old gasket and loosened screw's holding remainder of old gasket in place and finished removing old gasket.Finished putting new gasket in slot and tightened remaining screw's. The reason for only doing gasket half at a time is to keep the door square and not getting out of shape. If new gasket is warped when removed from shiping box run under hot water or soak in hot water until more flexible.
