This is a replacement O-ring for the drum bearing retainer on your dryer. The drum bearing is found at the back of the dryer drum. The O-ring is designed to create a seal on the drum bearing. The O-r...
This OEM replacement dryer slide bearing is white in color, and approximately 3 inches long. The slide bearings are supportive linings for your dryer. If they have eroded, or are damaged, the drums wi...
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23 questions answered by our experts.
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Marsha
February 10, 2020
Dryer isnt heating. Is it a sensor? Where are tge sensor located?
For model number GTD65EBSJ3WS
Hello Marsha, thank you for your question. There are a few thermostats that could be the issue. The most common cause of this issue is the Inlet Control Thermostat PartSelect Number: PS1766014. This part is located on the housing for the heating element. If that part is tested or replaced and doesn't fix the issue, we would recommend testing the other thermostats in the unit which are THERMOSTAT PartSelect Number: PS11736631, THERMOSTAT PartSelect Number: PS11736632, HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT PartSelect Number: PS12073907. I hope this helps.
Dryer is three years old and makes a dull thumping sound as it spins like load has shifted into one spot, removed all laundry and same sound occurs when dryer is empty, it sounds like when drum cycles to same spot thump sounds.
Thanks for any help on this
For model number GTD65EBSJ3WS
Hi David, thank you for reaching out. Based on the description you have provided, you may need to check that your dryer is properly leveled. If it is ok, then you may need to replace the drive belt, part number PS16542496, to fix the issue. It attaches to the motor pulley and spins the drum as the motor rotates. We hope this will resolve your problem!
The dryer won't turn on it acts like the power cord is not hooked up but it is and the breakers aren't blown any help would be appreciated as it's a new dryer from june of last year
For model number GTD65EBSJ3WS
Hello Richard, thank you for your question. We would recommend testing the thermostats and the heating element on the unit first. If those parts are ok, the issue could be with the electronics in the unit. If this unit is under a year old you may want to check with the manufacturer to see if its still covered under warranty. I hope this helps.
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Melissa
December 18, 2019
My dryer, the display went away but the dryer still functioned properly, one week later the dryer will only stay on if you hold in the start button, any ideas what parts i need?
For model number GTD65EBSJ3WS
Hello Melissa and thanks for writing.
It certainly sounds the time has come to change the faulty control board PS12722949 check for signs of damage and replace it if needed. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.
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Joseph
December 24, 2019
Dryer makes heat, but the clothes do not dry completely. I cleaned lint from the vent line, but no change.
For model number GTD65EBSJ3WS
Hi Joseph,
Thank you for your question. If the clothes in the dryer are not drying completely and you have cleaned the lint from the vent line, there are some other parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the duct felt seal, the foam seal, the drive belt, the inlet control thermostat, the blower wheel and the heating element. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Removed the front Dryer panel. Left drum in place and lifted it up slightly to get access to motor drive. Slipped belt in place and put panel back on. This was a first attempt ever at fixing an appliance and it was no big deal.
I had to take most of the dryer apart because there is no rear access to the motor. It turned out to be easy to dissasembel the dryer. The only problem that I had was that I could not figure out how to route the belt around the motor and the idol pullies. I could not find anywhere that gave instructions on how to properly tension the belt. I finally figured out that the idoler pulley needs to be locked in place on the right side of the engie mount. Then the belt needs to be routed over idoler pulley and under the motor pulley. Finally release the idoler pully from the locked postion to put tension on the belt. It really turned out to be pretty easy.
This part arrived at our house two days after I ordered it. I was stunned by how quickly it arrived.
Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.
I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."
Yeah, right.
I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.
There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.
I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.
A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.
With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.
At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.
This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).
Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.
You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.
Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.
45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.
Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.
