GTD45EAMJ0WS General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Replaced riped filter with new mesh filter screen.

Opened door, removed screw holding down metal plate that presses against interlock switch when door is closed. Removed plastic cover thingy that is over interlock switches. Removed the interlock switch by pressing the plastic lock thingy away from switch. Pulled the wires off each end of the interlock switch. Removed new interlock switch from plastic bag and reversed above procedure. Done, shut door and the dishwasher works.

Opened dryer door and pulled out and Removed Broken old Lint Filter, inserted New Lint Filter into Lint Filter slot, then closed Dryer door.

The repair, from the time that the bulb burned out until it was replaced took about six months. I could have shortened the time if I had ordered the bulb sooner. It was difficult because I had to listen to a fair amount of nagging, which, thankfully, has now ceased. I also had to actually go online and finI opened the dryer door, reached in with my right hand (which happened to be holding the new bulb) and screwed the new bulb in. Tip: Screw it in counter-clock wise. This was not mentioned in the instructions. Come to think of it, no instructions were provided. The company might wish to correct that oversight.

I first throwed the breaker then I took the old bulb out. Put new bulb in. Turned the breaker back on.
It worked great

pulled out old one put in new one

First I called to get help with the right part and they told me I needed the pus-to-start-switch. It came in and I called my handyman Ed to install it. I am happy with your service. I dont install but just got the part in.

Dryer wouldnt work. I was out of town when dryer stopped working. My grandmaother, who I live with, had brother came over to troubleshoot. He spent a good amount of time and couldnt figure out the problem.
When I returned home I tried it and immediately knew the knob was stripped because it didnt make the clicking noises. I verified by seeing where flat section was, then turning with knob and then seeing if flat section moved. Ordered new knob. Pulled old one off and put new one. Worked like a charm

I popped the door switch out with a small screwdriver, disconnected the electrical connection and re-connected the new switch and popped the new switch in place with a little adjustment.

There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.

Tried to replace with home-store bought 6w light. Looked the same, fit into socket, but didn't work. Actually exploded when I turned it on! Be sure to use OEM part like this one. Worked perfectly!

No repair, just replace the old with the new. Fast delivery.

Took the top and front end of the dryer off. Took the old slider spacers off and installed the new ones. I replaced all four of them even though only two was bad. While I had the dryer open I decided to use my shop vac to clean up the lint that had accumulated there. Replaced the front and the lid plugged it up, hit the start no noise just like new.

Took out frayed lint filter and put in new lint filter

Washer/dryer belongs to a friend. Originally, the problem was that the dryer wouldn’t heat, so I opened it up, and removed the drum thinking it might be the heating element. It wasn’t, and the ohm reading confirmed this. It turned out to be a burnt wire connector to the element ( unknown to me, and found out later, was that the start switch had remained continuously in the down position because the switch was pressed too far down and thus remained locked “on” in place under the surrounding cabinet frame. This, in my opinion, caused for a continual call for heat and thus burnt the wire.)

I replaced the burnt wire/connector and reassembled. Now the dryer would heat, but would only run if the start button was continually depressed. Let go of the button, and the dryer stopped.

Repair pros suggested a new start switch. I bought a new start switch along with a new interlock switch (it basically shuts off dryer if belt breaks because lack of a belt releases pressure on the pulley that keeps switch depressed.) Apparently they can go bad, too.

It turns out neither of these switches were bad. Instead, upon further inspection, after the first installation of the drum belt, the L-shaped bracket which holds the pulley for belt tension became dislocated from its correct position and was not allowing for the depression of the interlock switch, causing the dryer to “read” broken belt, and thus, not run.

I loosened the motor bracket to allow placing the bracket in the correct position. Reassembled and all was good.
PSA - almost every sheet metal edge is razor sharp.
In the process of returning parts. Now in the process of returning parts.