Models > GSS22IBTC

GSS22IBTC General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

Sections of the GSS22IBTC

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Temperature Sensor – Part Number: WR55X10025
Temperature Sensor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
PartSelect #: PS304103
Manufacturer #: WR55X10025
Also known as a thermistor. This part is used to sense the temperature in the cabinet.
$33.12
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Defrost Heater Harness Kit – Part Number: WR51X10101
Defrost Heater Harness Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS1993872
Manufacturer #: WR51X10101
This dual heater kit replaces the single heater. It's redesigned to use two heating elements for a better defrost cycle.
$89.67
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Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet – Part Number: WR02X10098
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS284555
Manufacturer #: WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
$14.78
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Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X240
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS306944
Manufacturer #: WR72X240
This replacement drawer slide rail is for the right-hand side of your refrigerator. You will need a Phillips screwdriver to complete this repair.
$99.16
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Evaporator Fan Motor – Part Number: WR60X10185
Evaporator Fan Motor
PartSelect #: PS1019114
Manufacturer #: WR60X10185
This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated. Note: Therm...
$161.64
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Condenser Fan Motor – Part Number: WR60X10220
Condenser Fan Motor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS1766247
Manufacturer #: WR60X10220
This fan motor is most times used with frost-free refrigerators with a condenser coil. When the compressor runs, so does this fan, circulating air through the refrigerator grille, cooling the compress...
$88.63
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Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR72X239
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS306943
Manufacturer #: WR72X239
When looking inside the fridge, this white drawer slide rail is located on the left side of the refrigerator. This part includes the rail only.
$84.36
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Evaporator Fan Grommet - Grey – Part Number: WR02X11331
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Grey
PartSelect #: PS773826
Manufacturer #: WR02X11331
This is a replacement evaporator fan grommet for your refrigerator. The fan grommet absorbs the vibration from the evaporator fan motor for quiet operation while it runs. If your evaporator fan is unu...
$10.28
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Condenser Fans Blade Assembly – Part Number: WR60X10207
Condenser Fans Blade Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS1022410
Manufacturer #: WR60X10207
The condenser fan blade assembly helps to regulate the temperature in your refrigerator or freezer. This fan assembly has 4 blades, but other fans may have 3 blades, so be sure to check the number of ...
$22.81
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Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X242
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS306946
Manufacturer #: WR72X242
This is the drawer slide rail or slide assembly for your refrigerator. You will find the drawer slide rail at the bottom of your refrigerator, mounted to the right-hand side of the cabinet wall. It is...
$94.12
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Lid Bumper – Part Number: WR02X10540
Lid Bumper
PartSelect #: PS284979
Manufacturer #: WR02X10540
The lid bumper or evaporator fan motor bumper in your refrigerator prevents the fan motor from scraping against the side bracket. If your refrigerator/freezer is noisy, the bumper could be worn down o...
$12.42
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DOOR DAIRY – Part Number: WR71X38317
DOOR DAIRY
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS16619589
Manufacturer #: WR71X38317
This is the replacement dairy door for a refrigerator. It is installed on the inner door and rotates up and down to allow access to the dairy compartment. It is made of clear plastic. If your dairy do...
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Questions And Answers for GSS22IBTC

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Common Symptoms of the GSS22IBTC

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Fridge too warm
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Noisy
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Fridge too cold
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Will Not Start
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Door won’t open or close
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Clicking sound
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Ice maker not making ice
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Not dispensing water
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Light not working
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Leaking
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Doesn’t stop running
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Too cold
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Fridge too warm, evaporator icing up
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor Evaporator Thermistor Clip
  • Gerald from San Clemente, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
600 of 720 people found this instruction helpful.
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Defrost Heater blows out, refrigerator frosts up, then stops cooling
Disclaimer - if you aren't confident about doing this repair, call a repair specialist in. Also, take care not to damage the freezer coils as they have refrigerant in them that I'm told is harmful if it leaks. It may also be under pressure. The instructions that follow won't require you to touch the coils. There is no need to unplug the refrigerator or disconnect the water supply to do this repair. The screw driver you will need is a phillips (the one withe the + head).

1st, take out your frozen food (which, if you need to do this repair may not be frozen) and put it in a cooler or the refrigerator.
2nd, remove the ice cube bucket and dump the ice cubes in the cooler to help keep the frozen food cool. Turn the ice cube maker off.
3rd, remove the freezer shelves.
4th, locate the panel covering the freezer coils. It's a panel at the back of the freezer. It hides the freezer coils and protects them from damage. It's held in place by two screws located at the top left and right corners of the panel.
5th, unscrew the screws holding the panel to the refrigerator.
6th, detach the clip at the top of the panel.
7th, remove the panel. You should see the coils now. The coils will be covered in frost if the defroster heater has failed. If the coils are not covered in frost, there may be another reason for the refrigerator failing to cool.
8th, even if the coils are covered in frost, you should also inspect the defroster heater at the bottom, underneath the coils. The business end of it is a long tube running horizontally between two wires. If it's black like a badly burned out light bulb, then it's failed. If the bulb appears fine, you may have a different reason for your refrigerator and freezer frosting up. We'll assume that the defroster heater has blown out, and proceed.
9th, place a towel at the bottom of the panel space, to soak up any water that melts and runs down. There is a drain under the coils. It collects water that melts during the defrost cycle, but I'd rather mop up the water instead of relying on the drain.
10th, use hot air blowing from the hair dryer to defrost the coils. Just play the air from the hair dryer over the coils, starting at the top, and working down. The frost will quickly melt and the water will be soaked up by the towels. If you want things to go faster, you can throw hot water on the coils to melt them faster, but that produces more water to mop up, and makes a big mess. It's also dangerous to have water lying around if you then decide to use the hair dryer to continue defrosting the coils.
11th. MOST IMPORTANT. Don't use your screwdriver or any other sharp object to pick away at the frost on the coils. If you damage the coils the refrigerant could leak out. I'm told that it's dangerous stuff. Furthermore, I expect that you'd have to buy a new refrigerator if you damaged the coils.
12th, once you've defrosted the coils, locate the defroster heater and bracket assembly again. It's held in place by two screws, and has two insulated wires running into it on either side. Unscrew the screws, disconnect the wires and remove the assembly. Throw it away - there are no useful parts in it.
13th, install the new defroster heater and bracket assembly by connecting the wires to it, mounting it back into its place, and rescrewing the screws.
14th, put the panel back in place, replace the clip, and screw the panel back in place.
15th, turn the ice cube maker back on and replace the ice cube bucket and shelves. Put your food back into the freezer.
16th, use the freezer and refrigerator as normal. If the defroster heater fails again (I'm on my third one in less than six years), you'll notice frost building up on the panel at the back of the freezer before your freezer and refrigerator stops cooling. The frost build up is your signal to defrost the freezer and buy another defroster heater and bracket assembly. I don't know why this part is so weak, and don't know any fix except to keep replacing it.
Parts Used:
Defrost Heater Harness Kit
  • Stuart from Lynchburg, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
407 of 432 people found this instruction helpful.
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my refigerator was warm but the freezer was cold and working correcttly
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.

I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.

After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.

I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • michele from North Smithfield, RI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
273 of 343 people found this instruction helpful.
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