This board controls the operation of the unit.
Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It may differ in appearance but will function the same as the original.
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated.
Note: Therm...
This fan motor is most times used with frost-free refrigerators with a condenser coil. When the compressor runs, so does this fan, circulating air through the refrigerator grille, cooling the compress...
1. I had to defrost the ice off of the back wall of the freezer with a blowdryer. 2. Removed the four 1/4'' screws and removed the back panel. 3. Defrosted all of the ice off the coils and heater. 4. I replaced the defrost thermostat and heater by following the directions that came with them. The directions are very clear and easy to follow. I had a single element heater, and the replacement was a double element, the directions even explained how to rearrange the wires to make it work. The whole job only really consisted of cutting two wires that are color coded on the thermostat and resplicing the new ones in. I used scotch locks and electrical tape for the splices. The element had connectors on it so I just removed two screws, unplugged two wires and plugged them on the new one. The greatest thing about this repair was that I troubleshot the problem using the PartSelect website, ordered the parts and they arrived at my house in less than 24 hours. Thank You.
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
After checking the stories, the consensus of opinion was to change the mother board. I had a tremendous help from Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. He also told me to change the motherboard but to make sure that the coils were totally defrosted before starting up the refrigerator after changing the board.
Took off three nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.
Really simple task,
It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.
