This board controls the operation of the unit.
Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It may differ in appearance but will function the same as the original.
Sold individually. This door bin is for refrigerators.
Door bin attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and typically holds jars and bottles.
Follow the instructions in the owner's manu...
This is the light switch that goes in your refrigerator. If the light is not working or stays on, you may need to replace the switch. It is made of mainly white plastic, and is an OEM part, directly f...
This is the replacement door stop, also known as a door stop bracket, for your refrigerator. It is made of black plastic, and is approximately 3 inches long and 1 inch wide. The door stop bracket stop...
This kit includes damper, fan assembly, nozzle and gasket for nozzle. The damper and fan has been updated by the manufacturer to avoid freezing in the refrigerator. Also known as a damper assembly.
This dairy door is a manufaturer approved replacement part for your refrigerator. This part covers the shelf which houses food products such as butter in your fridge. It is made of clear plastic and i...
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
1 question answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Maz
March 3, 2020
My evaporator fan kicks in sometimes when i put the temperature the highest in fridge and freezer..the fridge is cold but the freezer always in the middle..not warm or cold. it has been like this for two years now.
For model number GSR23YBWASS
Hi Maz,
Thank you for your question. If the freezer section is too warm, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the electronic control board, the evaporator fan motor, the evaporator fan motor grommet, the freezer door gasket and the light switch. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
< Prev
1
Next >
✖
Ask a Question
Ask our experts a question on this model and we'll respond as soon as we can.
After checking the stories, the consensus of opinion was to change the mother board. I had a tremendous help from Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. He also told me to change the motherboard but to make sure that the coils were totally defrosted before starting up the refrigerator after changing the board.
Took off three nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.
Really simple task,
It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.
My repair experience was a little more complicated than previous posts, but nothing major. And most importantly replacing the Fresh Food Air Inlet Cover did fix my problem. Here are the steps I followed: 1. You will need to remove a minimum of the top two shelves to get access to the Air Inlet Cover. It runs along the back of the fridge and connects to a hole to the freezer side. It has a little fan inside that sucks the cold air from the freezer and diverts to the top and bottom of the fridge. 2. As mentioned in other posts, there are four screws holding the Inlet Cover in place, 2 lower and 2 upper. To get access to the lower two screws,you simply pop off the lower duct assembly (squeeze the sides). Be careful when removing and installing these screws. If you drop one into the lower duct, you will add a few more steps to the installation to remove more shelves and take out the lower duct to get to where the screw fell. Obviously this happened to me. Not difficult to do, just adds more time. 3. To access the upper two screws I had to remove the top light cover (one screw) and then slide out the top duct/diffuser assy (my name, not GE's). 4. Finally to get clearance to pull out the Inlet Cover, I had to remove the water filter and cover. When you pull away the Inlet Cover, you will see the electrical connection that is simple to disconnect. 5. After I removed my Inlet Cover, it was obvious that it was broken because it rattled and I could peek inside to see that the plastic air diverter/flapper thingy was broken. 6. One final surprise was that the replacement Air Inlet Cover did not exactly match the one I removed. The replacement only had one upper air outlet, while my old one had three upper outlets, left, right and center. I noticed there was a plastic cover over one of the side outlets on the replacement, so I just popped that off and hoped for the best. 7. The replacement Air Inlet Cover Kit came with sticky back insulation that you attach to where the Inlet Cover meet the freezer access hole to make sure snug fit to limit extra cold air leaking into the fridge side. 8. Installation of the replacement Air Inlet Cover was fairly easy, just follow the above steps in reverse and make sure you don't drop any screws. It's been a couple of weeks since I performed this installation and my fridge has been maintaining temperature perfectly. No more frozen milk or lettuce. The wife is very happy.
Unplug refrigerator. First I removed 3 screws to remove cover for Board ASM Main located on back of refrigerator then loosen Board by pressing on each of 4 plastic pins then unscrew ground wire (green) then transfer all plugs from old Board to new Board, put back new board through pins, screw back ground wire then put back cover then plug back refrigerator, took 5 minutes
