This OEM ice and water filter fits side-by-side and bottom-freezer GE models. The most common reason you would need to change this part is if you have never updated your model and it is no longer filt...
The Module Shelf Insert is a complete assembly for the module shelf. This repair is rated as "Easy" by users. Simply remove the old shelf insert and snap the new one into place using the locking tabs....
This board controls the operation of the unit.
Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It may differ in appearance but will function the same as the original.
This double inlet water valve has quick connections. This valve has 1/4 and 5/16 John Guest fittings for the outlet lines and a 1/4 compression fitting for the inlet line.
The ice bucket auger is located within the ice bucket assembly in your freezer. It stirs and dispenses the ice in the bucket. You may need to replace the auger if your ice maker is noisy, or not dispe...
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
$11.69
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Questions And Answers for GSHF5KGXGCBB
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Pablo
June 4, 2022
WATER DISPENSER STOPS WORKING AT TIMES. IF I REMOVE ICE IT WILL BEGIN WORKING AGAIN.
For model number GSHF5KGXGCBB
Hello Pablo, Thank you for your inquiry. Check the water lines running from the water inlet valve and from the filter to the dispenser to make sure they are not frozen or clogged, or being blocked by the ice. We would also recommend checking the dispenser micro switch, the dispenser solenoid, the water inlet valve, the filter head and tubing, and the water filter. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, we have videos available to assist you. We hope this helps and if you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
Actual temperature is not equal to set temp.Freezer is so Fricking cold it froze alcohol, it won't stop cooling. Fridge seems a tad too warm. Temps displaywd are all over the place. I replaced the defrost heater, evap thermistor, thermostat, and freezer thermistor. Put my fridge in service mode and all sensors passed, damper passed, my gut is telling me evap fan. I replaced the control board back in December due to total dead fridge except for interior lights worked. The 2 resistors for the fans looked like they were working too hard for too long yet they had continuity, however the teeny tiny voltage regulators on the back of them had that bonfire appearance in circuit. Oh and the fan only shuts off while in defrost. Almost forgot, yes I cleaned the nasty condenser fan and coil. Fan works.
For model number GSHF5KGXGCBB
Hi Charley, thank you for contacting us. Considering all the symptoms you mentioned, we would recommend checking the Evaporator Fan Motor, part number PS2364950, and the DC Condenser Fan Motor, part number PS1483567. The evaporator fan motor pulls air through the coils to remove heat from the circulating air. Whereas the condenser fan motor draws air in from the front or rear of the refrigerator to cool the condenser coils and the compressor, and then it circulates the air back out through the base grill. We would suggest checking the wiring continuity, and the motor windings. We hope this helps!
The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo the connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refreigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explantion. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call which can now be used to take the family to dinner after your "exhausting" 15 minute workout of removing about 10 screws and wheeling the unit in and out of place. Writing this article took longer! My 4 year old worked harder holding the flash light!
I used a digital camera and photographed the assembled unit and the metal blades before I started the repair. Then, I removed the top screw on the clear shield. Flip over ice tray and removed two Phillips screws on bottom. Exterior plastic white cover comes off next. The cover sides have hard push-in white plastic tabs. Push them in; pry up top cover with small flathead screwdriver. Slide white top cover up and you will now see the metal blades and assembly. Auger is held in place with a metal c-clip and washer on the end. Use flat head screwdriver to pry off c-clip. Then you will see a nylon round slotted nut. The threads are reverse, use pliers and loosen nut. It is not that tight but pliers are needed. Then it all is loose and ready for removal. I slid all the blades off at one time and kept them stacked together. Slide out auger and clear flat shield cover. Install new auger, clear shield, and metal blade stack. When you put it all back together take a look at the long metal J-hook on the bottom make sure it is in the slot before you make everything tight. Failing to do this will prevent cubed ice from dispensing. It is not that hard to do the repair it just takes some patience and paying attention to details.
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.