GSD2657HEQ Maytag Refrigerator - Overview

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Replacement Ice Maker – Part Number: D7824706Q
$147.86
In Stock
Replacement Ice Maker
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Part #D7824706Q
This modular ice maker assembly replaces worn-out units to restore ice production in refrigerators. It includes the ice mold and control device but excludes the cover, ice level arm, wire harness, and mounting hardware, which must be reused or ordered separately. Unplug the refrigerator before installation and use work gloves for safety. Check compatibility with your model number before purchase.
Refrigerator Electronic Control Board – Part Number: WPW10503278
$69.52
In Stock
Refrigerator Electronic Control Board
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Part #WPW10503278
This electronic control board is a critical component in refrigerator systems, responsible for regulating temperature settings and managing cooling and defrost cycles. If your appliance is experiencing issues such as inconsistent temperatures, failure to start, prolonged operation, or ineffective defrosting, replacing the control board may resolve the problem. Installation requires a small flat blade screwdriver and should be performed with the refrigerator unplugged to ensure safety. Please note that this board must be programmed after installation to function correctly. For precise installation steps and programming instructions, refer to the manufacturer’s manual specific to your refrigerator model.
Refrigerator Water Filter Bypass – Part Number: W11395888
$56.05
In Stock
Refrigerator Water Filter Bypass
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Part #W11395888
This water filter bypass cap is a genuine OEM component designed for select Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, and affiliated refrigerator models. Installed in place of the water filter, it allows uninterrupted water flow to the dispenser and ice maker when the filter is removed or non-functional. The cap fits securely into the water filter head, providing a temporary or permanent bypass solution without filtering the water. It is commonly used during troubleshooting or when a replacement filter is unavailable. The kit includes the bypass cap and may feature installation instructions for quick and secure setup. Note: This part does not purify water and should not be used as a substitute for a functioning filter in systems requiring filtration.
Compressor Start Device and Capacitor – Part Number: W10613606
$89.78
In Stock
Compressor Start Device and Capacitor
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Part #W10613606
This includes both the run capacitor and the start relay. The capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. The start relay boosts the compressor, and then shuts off as soon as the motor gets up to speed and the overload provides extra protection against excessive temperatures.
Refrigerator Run Capacitor – Part Number: WP65889-4
$78.05
In Stock
Refrigerator Run Capacitor
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Part #WP65889-4
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
Refrigerator Dual Water Valve – Part Number: WP67005154
$115.40
In Stock
Refrigerator Dual Water Valve
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Part #WP67005154
This part, when activated, releases water from the supply line into the ice mold. This water inlet valve is for refrigerators. Water inlet valve supplies water to the refrigerator ice maker and water dispenser. Safely store any food that could deteriorate while the power is off and unplug the refrigerator before installing this part. Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
Door Closure Cam Kit – Part Number: R0181181
$14.25
In Stock
Door Closure Cam Kit
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Part #R0181181
This part helps with the closing of the door and helps keep them in position.
Door Switch – Part Number: W11396033
$40.90
In Stock
Door Switch
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Part #W11396033
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light when your fridge door is open, and to make sure it is off when your refrigerator door is closed. The reason you would need to replace this part is if your light is not turning on when your door is open. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, and a small flat-blade screwdriver.
Thermistor – Part Number: 12002355
$59.35
In Stock
Thermistor
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Part #12002355
Long harness thermistor kit.
Refrigerator Water Fill Cup & Bearing – Part Number: WP628356
$46.15
In Stock
Refrigerator Water Fill Cup & Bearing
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Part #WP628356
This icemaker water inlet cup is three inches long. It is all white in color and is made of plastic.
Freezer Evaporator Fan Motor 115v 60hz – Part Number: WPW10128551
$80.29
In Stock
Freezer Evaporator Fan Motor 115v 60hz
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Part #WPW10128551
This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will covert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated.
Refrigerator Water Filter Head – Part Number: WP67004106
$145.71
In Stock

Common Symptoms of the GSD2657HEQ

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
816 of 915 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determin ing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
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Freezer is cold, Refridgerator is not as cold as it should be
385 of 474 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from Hardinsburg, KY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Having seen this problem before in other equipment so I had an idea where to look. Problem: the automatic defrost function was not operating. Looking through openings in the back panel of the freezer compartment, you could see the evaporator coils and fins were a solid chuck of ice. There are three logical components to check. Heater element, thermostat (located just above the evaporator) and a relay on the control board (located in the fridge control panel). Checked the heater with an ohm meter -- OK. The thermostat closes the circuit at around 20 degrees and opens at around 32 degrees. Pulled out the thermostat, wiring, fan unit. Everything unplugs, unscrews, and unclips, don't cut wires. Put the whole assembly in a friends freezer for an hour or so to see if the thermostat closes -- OK. Problem had to be with the control board. Replaced control board, reprogrammed it per included instruction. Everything is working again.
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The compressor would not run.
327 of 375 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gilbert from Clinton, MO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the screws in the lower back panel where the compressor is located. Then I unplugged the capacitor and plugged the new one in. I then checked to see if the compressor would start. It wouldn't so I replaced the overload relay with capacitor and that fixed the problem. The capacitor just plugs into the relay then plugs into the co mpressor. There are several screws but all in all it is easy.
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