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GSA20IEMCFBB General Electric Refrigerator - Overview
Diagrams for GSA20IEMCFBB
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$34.68
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Temperature Sensor
Part #WR55X10025
Also known as a thermistor. This part is used to sense the temperature in the cabinet.
$23.79
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Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch
Part #WR02X11330
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
$60.28
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Defrost Thermostat
Part #WR50X10068
This defrost thermostat acts as a safety device against over heating in case of mechanical failure.
$16.74
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Evaporator Fan Grommet - Red
Part #WR02X12008
This evaporator fan grommet is red in color, and is about 1 inch in diameter.
No Longer Available
LIGHT SWITCH
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depresse...Read mored, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
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$13.95
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Compression Ring
Part #WR02X12149
$13.95
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Recess Door Spring
Part #WR02X10585
This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find the spring in the water dispenser assembly, behind the main control panel. If the dispenser lever is malfunctioning or the dispenser ice door is not closing, you may need to replace this door recess spring.
No Longer Available
Refrigerator Bypass
Part #WR17X22070
This part is a replacement filter bypass cap for your refrigerator. If you intend to use an external water filtration system for your refrigerator, the bypass cap will allow you to do so. To use a filter bypass cap, simply screw it in where you would normally screw in the regular water filter. If you have a bypass system installed and you...Read morer ice maker doesn’t make ice, your water dispenser doesn’t make water, or if there is water dripping inside your refrigerator, you may need to replace the bypass filter cap. This part is made of white plastic and is sold individually.
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No Longer Available
DISPENSER LIGHT
Part #WR01X37886
This twelve volt dispenser light bulb is a little under two inches long.
$88.24
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Dispenser Door Solenoid Assembly
Part #WR62X10055
This genuine OEM solenoid is designed for use with GE refrigerators and controls the opening and closing of the ice chute door. It serves as a direct replacement for a worn or faulty solenoid, helping to restore proper ice dispenser function. Constructed from durable metal, this part includes all necessary wiring for installation and is s...Read moreold individually.
Installation requires a Phillips screwdriver. Always refer to your appliance’s manual or diagram to ensure proper placement and compatibility before beginning the repair.
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$161.64
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Evaporator Fan Motor
Part #WR60X10185
This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated.
Note: Thermistor is NOT included. If you need the motor with the thermistor, see related parts.
$29.12
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Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper
Part #WR17X11653
This ice dispenser door flap, also known as a damper door, is designed to seal the ice chute in compatible refrigerator models, preventing warm air from entering the freezer compartment. Constructed from durable plastic and rubber materials, it opens when the dispenser lever is pressed to release ice, then closes to maintain internal temp...Read moreerature and prevent frost buildup. A faulty flap can lead to condensation, frost accumulation, leaking, or ice dispensing issues. This genuine OEM replacement is compatible with select models from GE, Hotpoint, and Kenmore, and restores proper sealing and dispenser function. Installation typically involves accessing the dispenser housing and securing the flap in place.
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Common Symptoms of the GSA20IEMCFBB
How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.
Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Noisy
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Leaking
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Light not working
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Freezer not defrosting
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Not dispensing water
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Fridge too cold
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Frost buildup
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Door Sweating
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Door won’t open or close
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Ice maker not making ice
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Too warm
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Door latch failure
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Will Not Start
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Clicking sound
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Doesn’t stop running
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Too cold
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Won’t start
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See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory!
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Fridge too warm, evaporator icing up
606 of 738 people
found this instruction helpful.
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I
... Read more
had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
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flap to ice dispenser would not close
420 of 487 people
found this instruction helpful.
The flap to the ice dispenser would not close, which allowed the ice dispenser to frost up, freezing the water dispenser.
This was a simple fix. The solenoid had stopped working, so it would not automatically close the door flap. I read some posts on this site that suggest that you had to remove the trim around the entire dis ... Read more penser to get at the solenoid. My fridge may be a newer model, but in any event it was much easier than that. Just below the touch pad for choosing water, ice, or crushed ice (above where the ice/water dispenses) there are three very small holes spaced about an inch a part. After unplugging the fridge, I stuck a small philips-head screw driver in each, freeing spring clips. That allowed the touch pad to come off. I then removed four screws to remove a plastic piece covering the chute, giving me access to the flap and solenoid. I just unplugged the solenoid from the circuit board on the back of the touch pad and then removed three screws to remove the old solenoid. I replaced it with the new solenoid and plugged it into the circuit board. The touch pad then snapped back into place.
The hardest part was figuring out how to get at the solenoid. After I found that pushing the clips in those three holes allowed me to remove the touch pad, it could not be any easier.
This was a simple fix. The solenoid had stopped working, so it would not automatically close the door flap. I read some posts on this site that suggest that you had to remove the trim around the entire dis ... Read more penser to get at the solenoid. My fridge may be a newer model, but in any event it was much easier than that. Just below the touch pad for choosing water, ice, or crushed ice (above where the ice/water dispenses) there are three very small holes spaced about an inch a part. After unplugging the fridge, I stuck a small philips-head screw driver in each, freeing spring clips. That allowed the touch pad to come off. I then removed four screws to remove a plastic piece covering the chute, giving me access to the flap and solenoid. I just unplugged the solenoid from the circuit board on the back of the touch pad and then removed three screws to remove the old solenoid. I replaced it with the new solenoid and plugged it into the circuit board. The touch pad then snapped back into place.
The hardest part was figuring out how to get at the solenoid. After I found that pushing the clips in those three holes allowed me to remove the touch pad, it could not be any easier.
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Freezer wouldn't maintain temperature ... got warm.
297 of 353 people
found this instruction helpful.
The freezer in my side-by-side kept warming up -- often 20 degrees or more, which of course caused the fresh food side to warm up also. I do a lot of jump-in-with-both-feet home repairs, but never on a large appliance. Not having an ohmmeter, which cost about $100 for a reliable one, I took the symptoms to the internet. Countless self-hel
... Read more
p sites and U-Tube videos later, I was positive it was one of two possible problems, either the defrost thermostat was broken and the defroster wasn't coming out of its cycle or the temperature sensor wasn't reading the correct temp and thus kicking in the fan motor when needed. Fortunately I found both parts easily on PartSelect.com and the total cost for both, including shipping, was $30, less than 1/3 of the cost of an ohmmeter. Not knowing for sure which part it was that was bad, I ordered both, figuring, since I had to pull out the panel anyway, I might just as well replace them both ... the price was right. (In retrospect I should have order 4 Temperature Sensors as my fridge has two in both the freezer side and the Fresh Food side. Any one of them being bad could have caused the same problem. Fortunately, I was lucky because it was either ONLY the Defrost Thermostat or I just happened to pick the right Sensor, but the repair worked.)
The repair was easy: Unplug the power. A Nut Driver removed the four screws holding on the panel in the back of the freezer. A screw driver removes the one screw holding the lamp cover in place. Remove the light bulbs, pull off the panel and right above the freezer coils you'll see both parts -- plain as day. (If your coils are clogged with ice, you will probably need de-ice first.) Cut the wires to both parts as close to the parts as you can to leave as much wire exposed as possible. Strip the ends of all four wires about 1/2 inch and also on the new parts. Match up the wires in the fridge to the wires on the parts and twist the ends together (Note: both wires on the Sensor are white so they match up either way, but the two wire on the thermostat will need to match up orange to orange and pink to pink.) I used silicone filled wire nuts, which you can buy at any hardware store or use your own wing nuts and fill them with silicone or shoe goo which works just as well ... anything to keep the moisture out and prevent the wires ends from corroding. Tuck the wires up and replace the panel, light bulbs and light cover That's it. Very easy. By far the hardest part was wedging my wide body into the narrow freezer compartment. Some one-handed work added a little extra time to the project.
In my case the freezer fan didn't kick in for about twenty minutes after I plugged it back in, but I assume that it either begins in the defrost mode or it takes that long for it to reset itself ... either way the repair worked great.
The repair was easy: Unplug the power. A Nut Driver removed the four screws holding on the panel in the back of the freezer. A screw driver removes the one screw holding the lamp cover in place. Remove the light bulbs, pull off the panel and right above the freezer coils you'll see both parts -- plain as day. (If your coils are clogged with ice, you will probably need de-ice first.) Cut the wires to both parts as close to the parts as you can to leave as much wire exposed as possible. Strip the ends of all four wires about 1/2 inch and also on the new parts. Match up the wires in the fridge to the wires on the parts and twist the ends together (Note: both wires on the Sensor are white so they match up either way, but the two wire on the thermostat will need to match up orange to orange and pink to pink.) I used silicone filled wire nuts, which you can buy at any hardware store or use your own wing nuts and fill them with silicone or shoe goo which works just as well ... anything to keep the moisture out and prevent the wires ends from corroding. Tuck the wires up and replace the panel, light bulbs and light cover That's it. Very easy. By far the hardest part was wedging my wide body into the narrow freezer compartment. Some one-handed work added a little extra time to the project.
In my case the freezer fan didn't kick in for about twenty minutes after I plugged it back in, but I assume that it either begins in the defrost mode or it takes that long for it to reset itself ... either way the repair worked great.
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