GS2726CEHQ Maytag Refrigerator - Overview

I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.

I replaced the actuator switch and rubber pad with the switch actuator.
I had attempted to repair previously without replacing the pad but the problem continued. I put up with the problem for a long time waiting for the opportunity to get to the appliance parts store but their hours are hard to deal with and work myself. I was able to find the part easily with the on-line catalog and parts diagram and ordering was no hassle at all. Shipping was extremely fast.
I remove the front panel by removing the drip tray and the 2 screws at the bottom. Then gently lift up on the front cover assembly (careful with the connector to the circuit board at the top) it slides over 2 screw heads at the top. Remove all the screws that secure the dispenser to the fridge, one screw is hidden on the right side (as you face the front. Work the dispenser out and careful of the water tube coming from the top - it stays in place. The wire connector must be unplugged from the left side in order to remove the assembly and not actuate the dispenser while working (a good idea to unplug the fridge). A small phillips screw holds the switch in place and the actuator fits over with the slots fitting over lugs on the assembly. Reinstall as you removed - be careful to be sure all wires go back into the proper location and "tracks" to keep them out of the way and avoid pinching (if the actuator will not go back flush in its location check the wires to the switch).
Plug all wires bach in and don't forget the harness to the top of the circuit board on the front panel.
Plug back in and check your work.
Important to replace the actuator pad - its "elasticity" is the return mechanism for the switch actuator. Probably the issue I had after replacing the switch and still suffering the same problem.
Good Luck!

First I unpluged the refrigerator, then I removed the drip shelf (slides out). Then removed the two screws hidden by the drip shelf. Then I removed the control panel by pulling out on the bottom then lifting slightly to to expose the ribbon cable. The circuit boards you see at this point will deliver an electrical shock if the refrigerator is plugged in. I disconnected the ribbon cable form the control (front) panel. Next I removed three screws that hold the chute assembly in place and worked the chute away from the door. Pay attention to the placement of the water line before you remove the chute. The bad flap fell out at this point but it is easy to fiqure out how to place the new one. When putting the chute back in place make sure the arm holding the flap is aligned in the groove of the solenoid plunger and not just setting on top. (I had to do this twice because the chute would not open the first time I put it back together). About a 30 min job because I took it apart the first time to see what was broken. I only needed the flap, the arm it mounts to an the solenoid were not broken. Easy to do and only cost about $16.00 with shipping for the part.