GRCR3960VB-1 General Electric Range - Instructions

This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires

After unscrewing the old heat sensor from inside the oven, I pulled the range away from the wall, got behind it and removed the small panel over the heat sensor. Naturally, the plastic clips connecting the heat sensor to the range wiring wouldn't come apart, so I eventually had to simply pry them apart with two pliers. Then, naturally, the new plastic connector clip on the replacement part didn't match the clip from the range, so I had to cut off both receptacles and strip the wires, then used the provided wire nuts to make the connections. After that, it was easy, just secured the heat sensor inside the oven and replaced the panel. I didn't push the range back against the wall until I tested the repair. It worked fine!

As has been said shut down unit,Breaker fuse.If you do not have install info.Get a copy on line. If you have another set of hands it would not hurt.! this has been stated before. Remove door, Remove 4 screws , to slide unit out,I used a saw horse with some cribing secured to the horse to get height, Pull the oven out so that the two front supports are on the saw horse,and the back two are up to the edge runner.I used about a 1 ft stool for working height. Remove the top elec. cover sheet metal 2 screws. You will see were the wireing runs down the back. Get a small mirror,and flash light. Look down the wire opening in the back, you see the sensor connection ,I made a hook out of a coat hanger to grab it with. Pull it up before you disconnect it ,tie a piece of string to the sensor side of the connector , use 2 Ft. then disconnect remove two screws from inside the oven. And remove,sensor tie string on to new sensor connector pull through and connect.on top.Then replace everything cck every thing Twice!Doing this i didn"t have to pull the unit all the way out! LATER GOOD LUCK!

I removed the unit from the wall,removed the back panel to access the wires to the sensor,cut the plug off of the new sensor and strip the wires back,used the wire nuts to attach the new sensor,put all back together and slid back into the wall and works excellent.

It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.

No problem installing oven sensor, but I diagnose the problem wrong, I need to change(ERC-11)control p/n wb27k5140

I removed the oven door by unlocking the hinges and pulling out. Set on workbench (with towel/pad) and removed handle, four screws, then bottom and inside panel screws, then one nut to finally be able to get at the inner glass insert. Removed insulation and then took an extra hour to really clean all surfaces (middle glass was quite greasy due to inner glass being broken for a while. Reassembly wasn't bad, but took a while to figure out that the two thin 2" red spacers belonged around the two handle screws. This was tough to figure out as they come off when taking the handle off, but you can't see them, so didn't know where they came from! Anyway, if you're just a bit handy, you can do this job.

very easy remove the bad bulb install the new one

I pulled the oven door off the hinges and took the bolts out of the bottom of the over that were holding the strip on. I then pulled the strip off and replaced it with the new on. I replaced the bolts and then replaced the door on the hinges.

We ordered the part from Part Select, got it within a week and replaced the door.
It is a little tricky because one has to dismantle the entire door to do the repair (inside screw to undo).
You'd preferably be 2 to do the repair, although one can manage.

Lid Switch.
Rewiring connection.
Function is satisfactory.
Fan belt ordered is saved.
A 1970 Clothes Washer.

Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

Removed several screws and removed element. Replaced same. Total ten minutes.