This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated.
The condenser fan blade assembly helps to regulate the temperature in your refrigerator or freezer. This fan assembly has 4 blades, but other fans may have 3 blades, so be sure to check the number of ...
This defrost timer will cycle for twenty-five minutes after every six hours of run time. The timer itself is made of plastic, and its terminals are bent, the leads are internal, and the label is orange.
This is the light switch that goes in your refrigerator. If the light is not working or stays on, you may need to replace the switch. It is made of mainly white plastic, and is an OEM part, directly f...
The lid bumper or evaporator fan motor bumper in your refrigerator prevents the fan motor from scraping against the side bracket. If your refrigerator/freezer is noisy, the bumper could be worn down o...
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. This part has been updated by the manufacturer and may appear different t...
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Sada
May 29, 2023
Is there any fans or filters in the freezer that need to be replaced. I didn’t receive a manual. I have a bad smell in the freezer.
For model number GIE18CTHMRWW
Hello Sada, thank you for reaching out. The evaporator fan motor, part number PS12741350, is located at the backside of the freezer section. There are several possible causes for the bad smell in the freezer section. These include spilled food or mold. First, remove the mold or spilled food with the help of a piece of cloth. You can easily remove the smell by placing the baking soda inside the freezer section. Baking soda has odor-killing properties. Take a bowl full of baking soda and place it inside your fridge. Close the door. Allow it to sit for a couple of hours. We hope this information helps!
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I removed two srews from the back panel inside fthe reezer compartment and the two that hold the air manifold/baffle? and pulled the baffle out. Then, I removed the two srews that hold the front part of the fan bracket behind the baffle and the back panel came out easily. Two more screws and one quick connect plug attached to the fan and I was done with removal. Insallation was even quicker, I slid the original fan right off the old motor and slid it on the new motor's shaft. Piece of cake! Thanks Partselect.
My husband put on the defrost timer. At first I thought the part was not going to fix the problem. After about 5 hours my refrigerator was still warm. I went to work and when I got home that evening my refrigerator was cooling and down to 28 degrees. So if you replace this part wait at least 12-24 hours. Give it time to stablize. My husband says it has to go through its cycle. It works on a 24 hour timer. My refrigerator is working fine and this has saved me alot of money. My husband says, once you put on the timer you may have to use a flat screwdriver and turn the small dial clockwise one click to start it. He removed the kick grill and replaced the part. Dont forget to shut breaker off to replace this part. Turn power back on and start the timer. We are so happy that we now have a working refrigerator.
I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple. Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use. The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap. After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.