GFWH1200D1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Remove the front coverfrom the machine. This is done by removing the 3 screws at the bottom of the panel. The panel then drops down and pulls straight off. The pump is located on the front right wall of the of the machine. You will notice a 2-3 inch diamete threaded cap on the right side of the front wall of the machine. This is the front of the pump and access to the filter. Place a large bucket under this cap and slowly loosen the cap. All of the water remaining in the machine will begin to drain (this could be a lot of water. Do not remove the cap completely so that you can quickly stop the flow of water if needed). Once all water is drained from the appliance, Disconnect the two hoses from the pump using a pair of pliers to looses the presure clamps, sliding the clamps back an then pulling off the hoses (be careful of any remaining water in the hoses). Then remove the two screws from the rear base of the pump that secure it to the bottom floor panel of the washer. Slide the pump slightly to the rear to free it from the fittings on the front wall of the machine and the lift the pump up. At this point, firmly pull out the wiring harness plugged into the top right side of the pump. Install the new pump by plugging in the wiring harness and resecuring the pump. Plug in the machine and run on the rinse and spin cycle to test.

I took the two drain hoses off with the pliers then only two screws that holds the pump. After that the two hot wires which are black and white. But remember to unplug you're washer since the pump is not grounded you don't want to risk being shocked. Hope thi helps. Plus i saved around 250.00 by repairing myself.

I called a repair person to check my 15 months old GE front loader washer that stopped in rinse mode. After his inspection he said it was a deffected computer board and it would be very expensive to replace the 3 computers boards inside and it would be cheaper to buy a new top loader washer. The next day I lifted the top cover and found a taped plastic envelope with instructions titled “For service Technicians Only." On page 2, instruction on to how to enter the washer in to service mode and to test the washer:
Press : Signal, Delay, Signal, Delay (within 30 seconds of plug in washer)
Then rotate main knob to #102 and press Start:(the washer did a test for finding the problem) , and for me was : E22 , it means : replace solenoid valve assembly.
So I order the part from Partselect.com for $58.00 and my Washer runs beautiful, thanks to the instructions inside.

Remove bottom kick plate of washer. Remove 4 screws behind door that hold the latch/lock assembly. Reach up inside the washer from underneath to unplug 3 wire connectors. (This is a very tight spot). Once wires are off, part comes right out. Connect wires to the new part - this is by far the most difficult part of the job because it is way up inside the washer. Replace all bolts.
Overall, pretty easy to do - just reconnecting the wires is a pain, but if you are patient it is not a big deal.

removed 5 screws, unscrew two more screws, remove the houses and disconnect the wires remove the watter valve.

Part came quickly, was exactly what I needed, 2 minutes later, washing clothes again.

Flipped washer on side
Did repair from bottom
Really easy repair

Unplug machine.
Remove band from front bellows by prying the spring at 6:00 o:clock loose.
Pull back bellows on right side.
Remove 3 torx screws and gently pull door each lock assembly out. Unplug 3 wire harness connectors and plug into new latch lock in same order.
Screw new latch lock in place and replace bellows and band.
Done

Replace the water valve according to the youtube video from this site. It was really easy!

Per ps video. Really easy. Disconnect power, Remove front lower panel, remove Power leads, 2 installation bolts, remove 2 spring clamps on feed/exit hoses,reinstall.

Did not have to use the new pump filter. The old one finally worked. I probably didn’t screw it in tight enough.

The white door plunger broke after 3 years of use. After replacing the door plunger the door still would not close. so I also ordered the door lock part for inside the washer. This was also an easy replacement but far more expensive. A thing to note. If the door plunger breaks you may need to reset you locking piece. and save your self 130 dollars. To do this. remove the top panel of the washer. remove the control panel. remove the spring ring around the rubber seal. disconnect the door locking piece and remove from washer. now use a hook or stiff wire and loop inside the door plunger hole and pull the lock out. if it wont release ensure the white piece on the bottom is lowered all the way. This is also possible to reset with out removing but you wont be able to check the white piece(the lock holder). What ever you do do not take apart the locking piece it has lots of little parts an will give you nightmares.

My part came in and my husband was at work so..... I did not want to wait for him to come home to wash my clothes! I installed the motor myself and I was not even the one that took it off! It was so easy to do! Turned the washer on and bingo it was back and going! So glad I can get the parts myself and avoid the middle man and his bill!!! Hook up the drain hose with pliers and screw the motor to the frame and that's it!

Sandblasted spider to thoroughly clean it and increase ductility.We used aluminum foil covered in 5200 on one side to cover holes eaten through spider. Then glued the spider to the drum and filled inside rim of spider with a nice layer of 5200. If the spider was made of stainless steel, the washer would still be running great. Thanks

After getting error message from washer, Looked it up and found if the water lines are find, then replace the water valve. After replacing the valve, everything works fine.